Brand: Black Diamond
Category: Climbing Protection
Recommended by Brad Burns, PCGI Single Pitch Instructor, La Sportiva Athlete — Greater Rocky Mountains
Highlights: lightweight, durable
The Black Diamond Camalot™ Ultralight is an essential climbing protection device designed for fast-and-light missions, offering a remarkable 25% weight reduction compared to traditional Camalots. With its innovative design and high-strength materials, this cam provides reliable performance without the bulk, making it a must-have for serious climbers. 1. 25% lighter than standard Camalot, enhancing portability for weight-conscious climbers. 2. Sculpted lobes contribute to weight savings while maintaining strength and durability. 3. Dyneema cord replaces traditional cable, providing the same strength with reduced weight. 4. Double-axle design allows for the widest placement range, ensuring versatility in various rock features. 5. Color-coded for quick identification, facilitating rapid gear selection during climbs. 6. Engineered for high-performance in both sport and trad climbing scenarios. 7. Compact design makes it suitable for alpine ascents and multi-pitch routes. The Camalot™ Ultralight is ideal for climbers seeking lightweight protection on fast-paced ascents, particularly in alpine environments or during multi-pitch climbs. Best suited for advanced to expert users, this cam excels in scenarios where quick placements are critical, such as on technical routes or during challenging conditions. Its design is perfect for spring and summer climbs, where minimizing gear weight can significantly enhance performance and endurance.
Price: $119.95
- Who it's for
- Climbers who prioritize weight savings on long approaches, big wall days, or trips involving travel, and have the budget for a premium cam. Hosts consistently recommend the standard C4s as the better starting point for those on a tighter budget.
- What people are saying
- Hosts favor these in sizes #1–3 (and up to #4) for the noticeable weight reduction, calling it worth the extra cost. The trade-offs are clear and agreed upon: higher price and shorter usable lifespan than the standard C4s.
- Worth noting
- One host flags that sizes #0.75 and smaller have a stem large enough to make placement cumbersome, so the ultralight versions are less practical in those smaller sizes. Notes cover sizes .4–4, with a .4–2 range cited as sufficient for most mixed and alpine routes.
Brad Burns's review
A small rack of ultralight cams from .4-2 covers the protection for most mixed routes. Great cams that are durable and super light.
Recommended by Brad Burns, PCGI Single Pitch Instructor, La Sportiva Athlete
Frequently asked questions
Who is the Camalot™ Ultralight for?
Climbers who prioritize weight savings on long approaches, big wall days, or trips involving travel, and have the budget for a premium cam. Hosts consistently recommend the standard C4s as the better starting point for those on a tighter budget.
What do experts say about the Camalot™ Ultralight?
Hosts favor these in sizes #1–3 (and up to #4) for the noticeable weight reduction, calling it worth the extra cost. The trade-offs are clear and agreed upon: higher price and shorter usable lifespan than the standard C4s.
What should you know before buying the Camalot™ Ultralight?
One host flags that sizes #0.75 and smaller have a stem large enough to make placement cumbersome, so the ultralight versions are less practical in those smaller sizes. Notes cover sizes .4–4, with a .4–2 range cited as sufficient for most mixed and alpine routes.
What does Brad Burns say about the Camalot™ Ultralight?
A small rack of ultralight cams from .4-2 covers the protection for most mixed routes. Great cams that are durable and super light.
Why does Brad Burns recommend Black Diamond?
Brad Burns recommends the Black Diamond Camalot™ Ultralight for climbing protection. A small rack of ultralight cams from .4-2 covers the protection for most mixed routes. Great cams that are durable and super light.
Is the Camalot™ Ultralight a good climbing protection?
Yes — Brad Burns recommends the Camalot™ Ultralight by Black Diamond as their climbing protection pick. A small rack of ultralight cams from .4-2 covers the protection for most mixed routes. Great cams that are durable and super light.
More from Brad Burns's Ice Climbing
View Brad Burns's expert gear recommendations on Rendezvu
What other hosts are saying
6 experts recommend the Black Diamond Camalot™ Ultralight.
Carol Viau, AMGA Certified Ski Guide/SPI, PSIA L3 Ski Instructor, Via Ferrata Guide
Ultralight cams come in sizes 1-4. If you have the budget, I recommend springing for it. If your budget is limited, go with the regular cams in the next link I share.
Recommended in Climbing Gear
Ben Lim, AMGA Certified Rock Guide, Assistant Ski Guide, Apprentice Alpine Guide
If you can, treat yourself to the ultralight version of the beloved C4. Stay away from the smaller sizes, #0.75 and smaller. The stem is large enough that they become cumbersome to place.
Recommended in Rock Climbing Essentials
A standard rack goes from 0.4 to #3 (0.4, 0.5, 0.75, 1, 2, 3). Most people also buy a number 4. You can save a little money, add a little weight, and add a longer shelf life by purchasing the Camalot C4's instead of the ultralights but I prefer the ultralights. It's worth it in my opinion. You can feel the difference. I appreciate that lighter weight on trips that involve flying, long approaches, and long days on the wall.
Recommended in Trad Gear
The BD ultralight cams have become my favorite in the larger sizes, and are what I use in #1-3 most often. The increased price and shorter useful life make them less attractive as a starter set, where I would recommend the standard C4s instead.
Recommended in Trad Climbing
Philip Burnett, Weber State University Rental Manager
~4 depending on the alpine objective. I like the .4-1 for most alpine adventures unless I know it'll be wider.
Recommended in Winter Alpine Climbing
