Brand: Black Diamond
Category: Belay & Rappel Devices
Recommended by Brad Burns, PCGI Single Pitch Instructor, La Sportiva Athlete — Greater Rocky Mountains
Highlights: lightweight, rappelling
The Black Diamond ATC-Guide Belay Device is a lightweight, versatile tool designed for climbers seeking enhanced performance in both belaying and rappelling. With improved feeding and pulling capabilities, this device stands out for its multiple friction modes, making it an essential companion for any climbing adventure. 1. 10% lighter than its predecessor, enhancing portability without sacrificing performance. 2. Improved feeding and pulling in guide mode for smoother operation during climbs. 3. Multiple friction modes allow for customizable control during belaying and rappelling. 4. Compatible with a variety of rope diameters, accommodating different climbing scenarios. 5. Durable construction ensures long-lasting reliability in rugged outdoor conditions. 6. Lightweight design minimizes bulk, making it easy to carry on extended climbs. 7. Versatile use for both single and multi-pitch climbs, catering to diverse climbing styles. The Black Diamond ATC-Guide Belay Device is ideal for climbers of all skill levels, from beginners to seasoned professionals. It excels in both indoor and outdoor climbing environments, particularly in multi-pitch scenarios where versatility and reliability are crucial. This device is perfect for those who frequently switch between belaying and rappelling, ensuring optimal performance in various conditions. Whether tackling sport routes or alpine climbs, this belay device is a must-have for any climbing enthusiast.
Price: $49.95
- Who it's for
- Multi-pitch and trad climbers who need one device for lead belaying, top/anchor belaying in guide mode, and rappelling. Suits anyone wanting a single plaquette-style device instead of carrying multiple tools.
- What people are saying
- Hosts consistently praise its smooth rope feeding and wider slots for guide-mode belaying of one or two followers. The main recurring comparison is against the Petzl Reverso — hosts are split on anchor attachment (Reverso edge) vs. rope feeding and ear orientation (ATC-Guide edge), with most landing on the ATC-Guide.
- Worth noting
- Wider aperture than key competitors is a noted functional advantage for two-follower top belaying. One host mentioned wearing out a first unit and returning to this model, suggesting normal long-term wear is expected.
Brad Burns's review
The standard for ATC devices. Works great for rappelling, and works to belay from the ground or from an anchor from above.
Recommended by Brad Burns, PCGI Single Pitch Instructor, La Sportiva Athlete
Frequently asked questions
Who is the Black Diamond ATC-Guide Belay Device for?
Multi-pitch and trad climbers who need one device for lead belaying, top/anchor belaying in guide mode, and rappelling. Suits anyone wanting a single plaquette-style device instead of carrying multiple tools.
What do experts say about the Black Diamond ATC-Guide Belay Device?
Hosts consistently praise its smooth rope feeding and wider slots for guide-mode belaying of one or two followers. The main recurring comparison is against the Petzl Reverso — hosts are split on anchor attachment (Reverso edge) vs. rope feeding and ear orientation (ATC-Guide edge), with most landing on the ATC-Guide.
What should you know before buying the Black Diamond ATC-Guide Belay Device?
Wider aperture than key competitors is a noted functional advantage for two-follower top belaying. One host mentioned wearing out a first unit and returning to this model, suggesting normal long-term wear is expected.
What does Brad Burns say about the Black Diamond ATC-Guide Belay Device?
The standard for ATC devices. Works great for rappelling, and works to belay from the ground or from an anchor from above.
Why does Brad Burns recommend Black Diamond?
Brad Burns recommends the Black Diamond Black Diamond ATC-Guide Belay Device for belay & rappel devices. The standard for ATC devices. Works great for rappelling, and works to belay from the ground or from an anchor from above.
Is the Black Diamond ATC-Guide Belay Device a good belay & rappel device?
Yes — Brad Burns recommends the Black Diamond ATC-Guide Belay Device by Black Diamond as their belay & rappel devices pick. The standard for ATC devices. Works great for rappelling, and works to belay from the ground or from an anchor from above.
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What other hosts are saying
9 experts recommend the Black Diamond ATC-Guide Belay Device.
Cora Hanson, AMGA Single Pitch Instructor
The device I use primarily for rappelling and can also be used as a lightweight option to belay one or two followers from above.
Recommended in Sport Climbing
Teddy Dondanville, AMGA Assistant Rock Guide & Certified Single Pitch Instructor
The Black Diamond ATC is the mother of all tube-style devices. It can do it all– lead belay, belay in guide mode, and rappel. This is a critical tool to have on your harness.
Recommended in Belay and Rappel Devices
Spencer Huffman, Rock and Alpine Guide | Climbing Instructor and Coach
The best quiver-of-one plaquette/tube-style device by a mile. Wider aperture (hole size) than its competitors for advanced top-belay scenarios with 1 or 2 climbers. Buy this first for rappels over a standard tube style device so you don't have to buy a second one later!
Recommended in Basic Outdoor Kit
This is my favorite "Guide Style" belay device due to the way it orients, and slightly wider slots for belaying two ropes.
Recommended in General Climbing Gear
This was my first tube-style device with an eye for belaying in an auto-blocking mode. I tried another device for a while after my first ATC Guide wore out, but eventually came back to this one. I find it smoother to feed and the orientation of the "ear" on the back to be superior to alternatives like the Petzl Reverso and Camp Piu.
Recommended in Robert's Favorites
Owen Duda, Climber, Guide, Craftsman, Writer
Another incredible ATC guide, similar to Reverso but Black Diamond brand
Recommended in Starter Rock Package
Michael Murphy, Rock Climbing Instructor and Business Owner
I waffle back and forth between the ATC Guide and the Reverso from Petzl. I like the attachment of the Reverso to the anchor, but I like the feeding of the ATC Guide. Both are good-- I'm currently using the ATC Guide.
Recommended in Guide Kit
A must have for multi-pitch climbing! This device can do it all-lead belay, top belay, and rappel.
Recommended in Rock Climbing Mentorship Program
