Brand: Black Diamond
Category: Belay & Rappel Devices
Recommended by Woody Jacobson, AMGA Certified Rock Guide — Seattle, WA
The ATC-Guide Belay Device by Black Diamond is a lightweight and versatile tool designed for climbers seeking enhanced safety and control during belaying and rappelling. Its innovative features ensure optimal performance in various climbing scenarios, making it an essential addition to any climber's gear. 1. Weighs 10% less than previous models, enhancing portability without sacrificing performance. 2. Oval-ized anchor-hole design allows for smoother rope feeding and easier rope retrieval. 3. Multiple friction modes provide customizable stopping power for lowering or rappelling. 4. Guide mode capability enables belaying of one or two climbers from a single anchor point. 5. Constructed from durable materials to withstand the rigors of climbing environments. 6. Compatible with a wide range of rope diameters, ensuring versatility across different climbing setups. 7. Ergonomic design enhances handling and control, making it user-friendly for climbers of all skill levels. The ATC-Guide Belay Device is ideal for rock climbing, mountaineering, and multi-pitch routes, particularly in environments where safety and efficiency are paramount. It excels in both indoor climbing gyms and outdoor settings, catering to climbers ranging from beginners to advanced. This device is particularly useful in scenarios involving multiple climbers, ensuring secure belaying while managing rope dynamics effectively. Whether tackling summer crags or winter ascents, the ATC-Guide is designed to meet the demands of diverse climbing conditions.
Price: $54.95
- Who it's for
- Multi-pitch and trad climbers who need one device for lead belaying, top/anchor belaying in guide mode, and rappelling. Suits anyone wanting a single plaquette-style device instead of carrying multiple tools.
- What people are saying
- Hosts consistently praise its smooth rope feeding and wider slots for guide-mode belaying of one or two followers. The main recurring comparison is against the Petzl Reverso — hosts are split on anchor attachment (Reverso edge) vs. rope feeding and ear orientation (ATC-Guide edge), with most landing on the ATC-Guide.
- Worth noting
- Wider aperture than key competitors is a noted functional advantage for two-follower top belaying. One host mentioned wearing out a first unit and returning to this model, suggesting normal long-term wear is expected.
Woody Jacobson's review
A must have for multi-pitch climbing! This device can do it all-lead belay, top belay, and rappel.
Recommended by Woody Jacobson, AMGA Certified Rock Guide
Frequently asked questions
Who is the ATC-Guide Belay Device for?
Multi-pitch and trad climbers who need one device for lead belaying, top/anchor belaying in guide mode, and rappelling. Suits anyone wanting a single plaquette-style device instead of carrying multiple tools.
What do experts say about the ATC-Guide Belay Device?
Hosts consistently praise its smooth rope feeding and wider slots for guide-mode belaying of one or two followers. The main recurring comparison is against the Petzl Reverso — hosts are split on anchor attachment (Reverso edge) vs. rope feeding and ear orientation (ATC-Guide edge), with most landing on the ATC-Guide.
What should you know before buying the ATC-Guide Belay Device?
Wider aperture than key competitors is a noted functional advantage for two-follower top belaying. One host mentioned wearing out a first unit and returning to this model, suggesting normal long-term wear is expected.
What does Woody Jacobson say about the ATC-Guide Belay Device?
A must have for multi-pitch climbing! This device can do it all-lead belay, top belay, and rappel.
Why does Woody Jacobson recommend Black Diamond?
Woody Jacobson recommends the Black Diamond ATC-Guide Belay Device for belay & rappel devices. A must have for multi-pitch climbing! This device can do it all-lead belay, top belay, and rappel.
Is the ATC-Guide Belay Device a good belay & rappel device?
Yes — Woody Jacobson recommends the ATC-Guide Belay Device by Black Diamond as their belay & rappel devices pick. A must have for multi-pitch climbing! This device can do it all-lead belay, top belay, and rappel.
More from Woody Jacobson's Rock Climbing Mentorship Program
View Woody Jacobson's expert gear recommendations on Rendezvu
What other hosts are saying
9 experts recommend the Black Diamond ATC-Guide Belay Device.
Cora Hanson, AMGA Single Pitch Instructor
The device I use primarily for rappelling and can also be used as a lightweight option to belay one or two followers from above.
Recommended in Sport Climbing
Teddy Dondanville, AMGA Assistant Rock Guide & Certified Single Pitch Instructor
The Black Diamond ATC is the mother of all tube-style devices. It can do it all– lead belay, belay in guide mode, and rappel. This is a critical tool to have on your harness.
Recommended in Belay and Rappel Devices
Spencer Huffman, Rock and Alpine Guide | Climbing Instructor and Coach
The best quiver-of-one plaquette/tube-style device by a mile. Wider aperture (hole size) than its competitors for advanced top-belay scenarios with 1 or 2 climbers. Buy this first for rappels over a standard tube style device so you don't have to buy a second one later!
Recommended in Basic Outdoor Kit
This is my favorite "Guide Style" belay device due to the way it orients, and slightly wider slots for belaying two ropes.
Recommended in General Climbing Gear
This was my first tube-style device with an eye for belaying in an auto-blocking mode. I tried another device for a while after my first ATC Guide wore out, but eventually came back to this one. I find it smoother to feed and the orientation of the "ear" on the back to be superior to alternatives like the Petzl Reverso and Camp Piu.
Recommended in Robert's Favorites
Owen Duda, Climber, Guide, Craftsman, Writer
Another incredible ATC guide, similar to Reverso but Black Diamond brand
Recommended in Starter Rock Package
Michael Murphy, Rock Climbing Instructor and Business Owner
I waffle back and forth between the ATC Guide and the Reverso from Petzl. I like the attachment of the Reverso to the anchor, but I like the feeding of the ATC Guide. Both are good-- I'm currently using the ATC Guide.
Recommended in Guide Kit
Brad Burns, PCGI Single Pitch Instructor, La Sportiva Athlete
The standard for ATC devices. Works great for rappelling, and works to belay from the ground or from an anchor from above.
Recommended in Ice Climbing
