Brand: Black Diamond
Category: Ice Axes & Tools
Recommended by Brad Burns, PCGI Single Pitch Instructor, La Sportiva Athlete — Greater Rocky Mountains
Highlights: lightweight, durable, technical ice climbing
The Black Diamond Express Ice Screw is the ultimate tool for ice and alpine climbing enthusiasts, designed for rapid and effortless placements. With its innovative tapered tube and user-friendly features, it ensures optimal performance and reliability in icy conditions. 1. Tapered Tube Design: The unique tapered tube allows the teeth to cut a hole slightly larger than the tube, minimizing friction for smoother placements. 2. Large Crank Knob: Color-coded for easy size identification, the oversized crank knob enables effortless handling and quick adjustments. 3. 360-Degree Motion: Uninterrupted rotation allows for seamless placement in various angles and positions, enhancing efficiency during climbs. 4. Durable Construction: Made from high-quality materials, this ice screw is built to withstand the rigors of demanding alpine environments. 5. Lightweight Design: Engineered for portability, it offers a balance of strength and weight, essential for long climbs. 6. Multiple Length Options: Available in various lengths to suit different ice thicknesses and climbing scenarios, catering to diverse user needs. 7. Enhanced Grip: The screw's teeth are designed for superior bite in hard ice, ensuring secure placements even in challenging conditions. The Black Diamond Express Ice Screw is ideal for ice and alpine climbing, particularly in frozen environments where quick and secure placements are crucial. It excels in conditions ranging from steep ice routes to mixed terrain, making it suitable for both novice and experienced climbers. Perfect for winter expeditions and high-altitude ascents, it enhances safety and efficiency, allowing climbers to focus on their ascent without the worry of unreliable gear.
Price: $79.95
- Who it's for
- Ice climbers building out a standard screw rack for ice cragging and smaller backcountry objectives. Hosts recommend carrying multiples across sizes (10cm, 13cm, 16cm, 22cm), with the 13cm and 16cm making up the bulk of a typical 8–12 screw kit.
- What people are saying
- Hosts call these the standard for ice screws and a favorite for full ice climbing. One notes lighter, pricier options exist for big alpine missions, but these are considered durable and capable enough for most use cases.
- Worth noting
- Carry one on each side of the harness — both for multi-anchor setups and because a fall may limit access to one side of the body. Not flagged as the lightest option if weight is a priority on serious alpine objectives.
Brad Burns's review
The standard for ice screws. These bad-boys will make up the majority of your screw kit. I normally bring 8-12 screws with me, depending on the size and difficulty of the pitch. This normally means bringing: 1-2x 10cm Ice Screw (red), 5x 13cm screws (yellow), 3x 16cm ice screws (blue), 1x 22cm ice screw (purple) for v-threads.
Recommended by Brad Burns, PCGI Single Pitch Instructor, La Sportiva Athlete
Frequently asked questions
Who is the Express Ice Screw for?
Ice climbers building out a standard screw rack for ice cragging and smaller backcountry objectives. Hosts recommend carrying multiples across sizes (10cm, 13cm, 16cm, 22cm), with the 13cm and 16cm making up the bulk of a typical 8–12 screw kit.
What do experts say about the Express Ice Screw?
Hosts call these the standard for ice screws and a favorite for full ice climbing. One notes lighter, pricier options exist for big alpine missions, but these are considered durable and capable enough for most use cases.
What should you know before buying the Express Ice Screw?
Carry one on each side of the harness — both for multi-anchor setups and because a fall may limit access to one side of the body. Not flagged as the lightest option if weight is a priority on serious alpine objectives.
What does Brad Burns say about the Express Ice Screw?
The standard for ice screws. These bad-boys will make up the majority of your screw kit. I normally bring 8-12 screws with me, depending on the size and difficulty of the pitch. This normally means bringing: 1-2x 10cm Ice Screw (red), 5x 13cm screws (yellow), 3x 16cm ice screws (blue), 1x 22cm ice screw (purple) for v-threads.
Why does Brad Burns recommend Black Diamond?
Brad Burns recommends the Black Diamond Express Ice Screw for ice axes & tools. The standard for ice screws. These bad-boys will make up the majority of your screw kit. I normally bring 8-12 screws with me, depending on the size and difficulty of the pitch. This normally means bringing: 1-2x 10cm Ice Screw (red), 5x 13cm screws (yellow), 3x 16cm ice screws (blue), 1x 22cm ice screw (purple) for v-threads.
Is the Express Ice Screw a good ice axes & tool?
Yes — Brad Burns recommends the Express Ice Screw by Black Diamond as their ice axes & tools pick. The standard for ice screws. These bad-boys will make up the majority of your screw kit. I normally bring 8-12 screws with me, depending on the size and difficulty of the pitch. This normally means bringing: 1-2x 10cm Ice Screw (red), 5x 13cm screws (yellow), 3x 16cm ice screws (blue), 1x 22cm ice screw (purple) for v-threads.
More from Brad Burns's Ice Climbing
View Brad Burns's expert gear recommendations on Rendezvu
What other hosts are saying
4 experts recommend the Black Diamond Express Ice Screw.
Dan Morley, Rock Climbing Guide
These are fantastic screws that are built to last. There are lighter (and more expensive) screws on the market for big alpine missions but these get the job done nicely for ice craggin' and smaller backcountry objectives.
Recommended in Ice Climbing Gear
Cassidy Higgins, Avalanche Forecaster, AMGA apprentice Rock and Alpine guide
My favorite screws for full ice climbing.
Recommended in Alpine climbing gear
Sam Vinter, Ultrarunner | Mountain Athlete | BJJ | Strength | Recovery | Adventure | Lifestyle
Good to have one on each side of your harness. Functionally so you can anchor in multiple places should you need. Secondly if you fall you may only be able to access one side of your body with ease.
Recommended in Mountaineering
