Brand: Black Diamond
Category: Climbing Protection
Recommended by Philip Burnett, Weber State University Rental Manager — Ogden, UT
<h2>On fast-and-light missions and smash-and-grab ascents when weight really matters, the Black Diamond Camalot Ultralight presents a 15% weight savings over the Camalot.</h2> <p>With sculpted lobes that account for a portion of the weight savings, the Camalot Ultralight features a dyneema cord in place of a cable with all of the same strength you rely on. A double-axle design allows for the widest placement range possible for each cam device, and color coding makes for easy identification when quick pro is paramount. When light is right, the Camalot Ultralight is essential.</p>
Price: $119.95
- Who it's for
- Climbers who prioritize weight savings on long approaches, big wall days, or trips involving travel, and have the budget for a premium cam. Hosts consistently recommend the standard C4s as the better starting point for those on a tighter budget.
- What people are saying
- Hosts favor these in sizes #1–3 (and up to #4) for the noticeable weight reduction, calling it worth the extra cost. The trade-offs are clear and agreed upon: higher price and shorter usable lifespan than the standard C4s.
- Worth noting
- One host flags that sizes #0.75 and smaller have a stem large enough to make placement cumbersome, so the ultralight versions are less practical in those smaller sizes. Notes cover sizes .4–4, with a .4–2 range cited as sufficient for most mixed and alpine routes.
Philip Burnett's review
~4 depending on the alpine objective. I like the .4-1 for most alpine adventures unless I know it'll be wider.
Recommended by Philip Burnett, Weber State University Rental Manager
Frequently asked questions
Who is the Camalot™ Ultralight for?
Climbers who prioritize weight savings on long approaches, big wall days, or trips involving travel, and have the budget for a premium cam. Hosts consistently recommend the standard C4s as the better starting point for those on a tighter budget.
What do experts say about the Camalot™ Ultralight?
Hosts favor these in sizes #1–3 (and up to #4) for the noticeable weight reduction, calling it worth the extra cost. The trade-offs are clear and agreed upon: higher price and shorter usable lifespan than the standard C4s.
What should you know before buying the Camalot™ Ultralight?
One host flags that sizes #0.75 and smaller have a stem large enough to make placement cumbersome, so the ultralight versions are less practical in those smaller sizes. Notes cover sizes .4–4, with a .4–2 range cited as sufficient for most mixed and alpine routes.
What does Philip Burnett say about the Camalot™ Ultralight?
~4 depending on the alpine objective. I like the .4-1 for most alpine adventures unless I know it'll be wider.
Why does Philip Burnett recommend Black Diamond?
Philip Burnett recommends the Black Diamond Camalot™ Ultralight for climbing protection. ~4 depending on the alpine objective. I like the .4-1 for most alpine adventures unless I know it'll be wider.
Is the Camalot™ Ultralight a good climbing protection?
Yes — Philip Burnett recommends the Camalot™ Ultralight by Black Diamond as their climbing protection pick. ~4 depending on the alpine objective. I like the .4-1 for most alpine adventures unless I know it'll be wider.
More from Philip Burnett's Winter Alpine Climbing
View Philip Burnett's expert gear recommendations on Rendezvu
What other hosts are saying
6 experts recommend the Black Diamond Camalot™ Ultralight.
Carol Viau, AMGA Certified Ski Guide/SPI, PSIA L3 Ski Instructor, Via Ferrata Guide
Ultralight cams come in sizes 1-4. If you have the budget, I recommend springing for it. If your budget is limited, go with the regular cams in the next link I share.
Recommended in Climbing Gear
Ben Lim, AMGA Certified Rock Guide, Assistant Ski Guide, Apprentice Alpine Guide
If you can, treat yourself to the ultralight version of the beloved C4. Stay away from the smaller sizes, #0.75 and smaller. The stem is large enough that they become cumbersome to place.
Recommended in Rock Climbing Essentials
A standard rack goes from 0.4 to #3 (0.4, 0.5, 0.75, 1, 2, 3). Most people also buy a number 4. You can save a little money, add a little weight, and add a longer shelf life by purchasing the Camalot C4's instead of the ultralights but I prefer the ultralights. It's worth it in my opinion. You can feel the difference. I appreciate that lighter weight on trips that involve flying, long approaches, and long days on the wall.
Recommended in Trad Gear
The BD ultralight cams have become my favorite in the larger sizes, and are what I use in #1-3 most often. The increased price and shorter useful life make them less attractive as a starter set, where I would recommend the standard C4s instead.
Recommended in Trad Climbing
Brad Burns, PCGI Single Pitch Instructor, La Sportiva Athlete
A small rack of ultralight cams from .4-2 covers the protection for most mixed routes. Great cams that are durable and super light.
Recommended in Ice Climbing
