Brand: Black Diamond
Category: Climbing Protection
Recommended by Doug Dobkowski, Outdoor Educator, Guide — North Conway, NH
Highlights: long distance, lightweight, durable
The Camalot™ Ultralight by Black Diamond redefines climbing protection with its innovative design, offering a perfect balance of weight savings and reliability. Engineered for serious climbers, this versatile gear ensures optimal performance without compromising safety. 1. Ultralight Design: Weighs significantly less than traditional camming devices, enhancing your overall climbing efficiency. 2. Dual Axle Technology: Provides a wider range of expansion, ensuring secure placements in various rock types and crack sizes. 3. Color-Coded Sizes: Easy identification and selection, allowing for quick transitions during climbs. 4. Durable Construction: Made with high-quality materials that resist wear and tear, ensuring longevity in rugged outdoor conditions. 5. Enhanced Grip: Features a textured surface for improved handling, even in wet or cold environments. 6. Versatile Range: Available in multiple sizes to accommodate different climbing scenarios, from sport routes to trad climbs. 7. Lightweight Trigger Mechanism: Allows for smooth operation and easy placement, even with gloves on. The Camalot™ Ultralight is ideal for rock climbing, particularly in trad and multi-pitch scenarios where weight reduction is crucial. It performs best in varied environments, from alpine climbs to sport crags, catering to both novice and experienced climbers. This product excels in situations requiring quick gear changes and secure placements, making it a must-have for any climbing expedition, regardless of the season.
Price: $119.95
- Who it's for
- Climbers who prioritize weight savings on long approaches, big wall days, or trips involving travel, and have the budget for a premium cam. Hosts consistently recommend the standard C4s as the better starting point for those on a tighter budget.
- What people are saying
- Hosts favor these in sizes #1–3 (and up to #4) for the noticeable weight reduction, calling it worth the extra cost. The trade-offs are clear and agreed upon: higher price and shorter usable lifespan than the standard C4s.
- Worth noting
- One host flags that sizes #0.75 and smaller have a stem large enough to make placement cumbersome, so the ultralight versions are less practical in those smaller sizes. Notes cover sizes .4–4, with a .4–2 range cited as sufficient for most mixed and alpine routes.
Doug Dobkowski's review
A standard rack goes from 0.4 to #3 (0.4, 0.5, 0.75, 1, 2, 3). Most people also buy a number 4. You can save a little money, add a little weight, and add a longer shelf life by purchasing the Camalot C4's instead of the ultralights but I prefer the ultralights. It's worth it in my opinion. You can feel the difference. I appreciate that lighter weight on trips that involve flying, long approaches, and long days on the wall.
Recommended by Doug Dobkowski, Outdoor Educator, Guide
Frequently asked questions
Who is the Camalot™ Ultralight for?
Climbers who prioritize weight savings on long approaches, big wall days, or trips involving travel, and have the budget for a premium cam. Hosts consistently recommend the standard C4s as the better starting point for those on a tighter budget.
What do experts say about the Camalot™ Ultralight?
Hosts favor these in sizes #1–3 (and up to #4) for the noticeable weight reduction, calling it worth the extra cost. The trade-offs are clear and agreed upon: higher price and shorter usable lifespan than the standard C4s.
What should you know before buying the Camalot™ Ultralight?
One host flags that sizes #0.75 and smaller have a stem large enough to make placement cumbersome, so the ultralight versions are less practical in those smaller sizes. Notes cover sizes .4–4, with a .4–2 range cited as sufficient for most mixed and alpine routes.
What does Doug Dobkowski say about the Camalot™ Ultralight?
A standard rack goes from 0.4 to #3 (0.4, 0.5, 0.75, 1, 2, 3). Most people also buy a number 4. You can save a little money, add a little weight, and add a longer shelf life by purchasing the Camalot C4's instead of the ultralights but I prefer the ultralights. It's worth it in my opinion. You can feel the difference. I appreciate that lighter weight on trips that involve flying, long approaches, and long days on the wall.
Why does Doug Dobkowski recommend Black Diamond?
Doug Dobkowski recommends the Black Diamond Camalot™ Ultralight for climbing protection. A standard rack goes from 0.4 to #3 (0.4, 0.5, 0.75, 1, 2, 3). Most people also buy a number 4. You can save a little money, add a little weight, and add a longer shelf life by purchasing the Camalot C4's instead of the ultralights but I prefer the ultralights. It's worth it in my opinion. You can feel the difference. I appreciate that lighter weight on trips that involve flying, long approaches, and long days on the wall.
Is the Camalot™ Ultralight a good climbing protection?
Yes — Doug Dobkowski recommends the Camalot™ Ultralight by Black Diamond as their climbing protection pick. A standard rack goes from 0.4 to #3 (0.4, 0.5, 0.75, 1, 2, 3). Most people also buy a number 4. You can save a little money, add a little weight, and add a longer shelf life by purchasing the Camalot C4's instead of the ultralights but I prefer the ultralights. It's worth it in my opinion. You can feel the difference. I appreciate that lighter weight on trips that involve flying, long approaches, and long days on the wall.
Is the Camalot™ Ultralight good for long distance?
Doug Dobkowski recommends it for long efforts: A standard rack goes from 0.4 to #3 (0.4, 0.5, 0.75, 1, 2, 3). Most people also buy a number 4. You can save a little money, add a little weight, and add a longer shelf life by purchasing the Camalot C4's instead of the ultralights but I prefer the ultralights. It's worth it in my opinion. You can feel the difference. I appreciate that lighter weight on trips that involve flying, long approaches, and long days on the wall.
More from Doug Dobkowski's Trad Gear
View Doug Dobkowski's expert gear recommendations on Rendezvu
What other hosts are saying
6 experts recommend the Black Diamond Camalot™ Ultralight.
Carol Viau, AMGA Certified Ski Guide/SPI, PSIA L3 Ski Instructor, Via Ferrata Guide
Ultralight cams come in sizes 1-4. If you have the budget, I recommend springing for it. If your budget is limited, go with the regular cams in the next link I share.
Recommended in Climbing Gear
Ben Lim, AMGA Certified Rock Guide, Assistant Ski Guide, Apprentice Alpine Guide
If you can, treat yourself to the ultralight version of the beloved C4. Stay away from the smaller sizes, #0.75 and smaller. The stem is large enough that they become cumbersome to place.
Recommended in Rock Climbing Essentials
The BD ultralight cams have become my favorite in the larger sizes, and are what I use in #1-3 most often. The increased price and shorter useful life make them less attractive as a starter set, where I would recommend the standard C4s instead.
Recommended in Trad Climbing
Brad Burns, PCGI Single Pitch Instructor, La Sportiva Athlete
A small rack of ultralight cams from .4-2 covers the protection for most mixed routes. Great cams that are durable and super light.
Recommended in Ice Climbing
Philip Burnett, Weber State University Rental Manager
~4 depending on the alpine objective. I like the .4-1 for most alpine adventures unless I know it'll be wider.
Recommended in Winter Alpine Climbing
