Brand: Metolius

Category: Climbing Protection

Recommended by Doug Dobkowski, Outdoor Educator, Guide — North Conway, NH

Highlights: lightweight, durable, small sizes

The Metolius Ultralight Master Cam Black 5 is a high-performance climbing protection device designed for serious climbers seeking optimal safety and lightweight convenience. Its innovative design and durable construction make it an essential tool for tackling challenging routes with confidence. 1. Ultralight Design: Weighs only 1.7 ounces, making it one of the lightest cams available, perfect for reducing overall gear weight. 2. Dual Axle System: Offers a wider range of expansion, allowing for secure placements in various crack sizes. 3. Strong and Durable: Constructed with high-quality aluminum and robust nylon, ensuring longevity and reliability in demanding conditions. 4. Color-Coded for Easy Identification: Bright color scheme simplifies quick selection and enhances visibility during climbs. 5. Range: Expands from 1.50 to 2.25 inches, providing versatility for different climbing scenarios. 6. Trigger Pull: Features a smooth, ergonomic trigger for easy handling and precise placements, even with gloves. 7. CE and UIAA Certified: Meets rigorous safety standards, ensuring peace of mind for climbers at all levels. The Metolius Ultralight Master Cam Black 5 is ideal for rock climbing, particularly in multi-pitch and traditional climbing scenarios where weight savings are critical. It performs best in rocky environments with various crack sizes, making it suitable for both sport and trad climbers. This cam is designed for intermediate to advanced users who require reliable protection on challenging ascents. It excels in spring and fall conditions when climbers seek to tackle rugged terrains with confidence and safety.

Price: $69.95

Who it's for: Climbers who want lighter cams for granite and alpine routes, and those who need sizes that fall between standard Black Diamond cam sizes. Most useful in the smaller sizes (00–4).
What people are saying: Hosts consistently praise the lighter weight and the way smaller sizes fill gaps between BD sizes, particularly for thin and finger cracks. The main recurring criticism is the absence of a thumb loop.
Worth noting: Hosts recommend prioritizing sizes 00–4; the larger sizes (black/#5 and up) get less consistent endorsement. Notes are otherwise thin on durability or fit caveats beyond the missing thumb loop.

Doug Dobkowski's review

These are my favorite cams for smaller cracks. They also fit in between the Black Diamond sizes. I recommend purchasing these cams in sizes 00-4 (00, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4). The corresponding colors are: Grey, Purple, Blue, Yellow, Orange, and Red.

Recommended by Doug Dobkowski, Outdoor Educator, Guide

Frequently asked questions

Who is the Metolius Ultralight Master Cam for?

Climbers who want lighter cams for granite and alpine routes, and those who need sizes that fall between standard Black Diamond cam sizes. Most useful in the smaller sizes (00–4).

What do experts say about the Metolius Ultralight Master Cam?

Hosts consistently praise the lighter weight and the way smaller sizes fill gaps between BD sizes, particularly for thin and finger cracks. The main recurring criticism is the absence of a thumb loop.

What should you know before buying the Metolius Ultralight Master Cam?

Hosts recommend prioritizing sizes 00–4; the larger sizes (black/#5 and up) get less consistent endorsement. Notes are otherwise thin on durability or fit caveats beyond the missing thumb loop.

What does Doug Dobkowski say about the Metolius Ultralight Master Cam?

Why does Doug Dobkowski recommend Metolius?

Doug Dobkowski recommends the Metolius Metolius Ultralight Master Cam for climbing protection. These are my favorite cams for smaller cracks. They also fit in between the Black Diamond sizes. I recommend purchasing these cams in sizes 00-4 (00, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4). The corresponding colors are: Grey, Purple, Blue, Yellow, Orange, and Red.

Is the Metolius Ultralight Master Cam a good climbing protection?

Yes — Doug Dobkowski recommends the Metolius Ultralight Master Cam by Metolius as their climbing protection pick. These are my favorite cams for smaller cracks. They also fit in between the Black Diamond sizes. I recommend purchasing these cams in sizes 00-4 (00, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4). The corresponding colors are: Grey, Purple, Blue, Yellow, Orange, and Red.

More from Doug Dobkowski's Trad Gear

View Doug Dobkowski's expert gear recommendations on Rendezvu

Metolius Ultralight Master Cam

Purchasing through this link directly supports Doug

Who it's for: Climbers who want lighter cams for granite and alpine routes, and those who need sizes that fall between standard Black Diamond cam sizes. Most useful in the smaller sizes (00–4).
What other hosts are saying: Hosts consistently praise the lighter weight and the way smaller sizes fill gaps between BD sizes, particularly for thin and finger cracks. The main recurring criticism is the absence of a thumb loop.
Worth noting: Hosts recommend prioritizing sizes 00–4; the larger sizes (black/#5 and up) get less consistent endorsement. Notes are otherwise thin on durability or fit caveats beyond the missing thumb loop.

Metolius Ultralight Master Cam

Who it's for: Climbers who want lighter cams for granite and alpine routes, and those who need sizes that fall between standard Black Diamond cam sizes. Most useful in the smaller sizes (00–4).
What other hosts are saying: Hosts consistently praise the lighter weight and the way smaller sizes fill gaps between BD sizes, particularly for thin and finger cracks. The main recurring criticism is the absence of a thumb loop.
Worth noting: Hosts recommend prioritizing sizes 00–4; the larger sizes (black/#5 and up) get less consistent endorsement. Notes are otherwise thin on durability or fit caveats beyond the missing thumb loop.

Purchasing through this link directly supports Doug

What other hosts are saying

4 experts recommend the Metolius Ultralight Master Cam.

Spencer Huffman, Rock and Alpine Guide | Climbing Instructor and Coach

Great in the smaller cams for in between the BD sizes.

Recommended in Trad Climbing Gear

Cage Vigil, Guide

My favorite light cams, especially for granite alpine zones. Lighter than the competition and a greater available size range.

Recommended in Multi-Day Alpine

Owen Duda, Climber, Guide, Craftsman, Writer

Personally, I love the Master Cams. They get a lot of slack, mostly for not having a thumb loop. The only sizes I find I constantly use of the #0, 1, 2, 3, 4 (purple, blue, yellow, orange. I sometimes find myself using the black one, as it seems more on par with a BD 0.75 vs the red #5.

Recommended in Trad Climbing

Metolius Ultralight Master Cam

Purchasing through this link directly supports Doug

Who it's for: Climbers who want lighter cams for granite and alpine routes, and those who need sizes that fall between standard Black Diamond cam sizes. Most useful in the smaller sizes (00–4).
What other hosts are saying: Hosts consistently praise the lighter weight and the way smaller sizes fill gaps between BD sizes, particularly for thin and finger cracks. The main recurring criticism is the absence of a thumb loop.
Worth noting: Hosts recommend prioritizing sizes 00–4; the larger sizes (black/#5 and up) get less consistent endorsement. Notes are otherwise thin on durability or fit caveats beyond the missing thumb loop.

Metolius Ultralight Master Cam

Who it's for: Climbers who want lighter cams for granite and alpine routes, and those who need sizes that fall between standard Black Diamond cam sizes. Most useful in the smaller sizes (00–4).
What other hosts are saying: Hosts consistently praise the lighter weight and the way smaller sizes fill gaps between BD sizes, particularly for thin and finger cracks. The main recurring criticism is the absence of a thumb loop.
Worth noting: Hosts recommend prioritizing sizes 00–4; the larger sizes (black/#5 and up) get less consistent endorsement. Notes are otherwise thin on durability or fit caveats beyond the missing thumb loop.

Purchasing through this link directly supports Doug