Brand: Metolius
Category: Climbing Protection
Recommended by Owen Duda, Climber, Guide, Craftsman, Writer — New Hampshire
Highlights: lightweight, durable
The Ultralight Master Cam is an essential addition to any climbing rack, designed to provide reliable placements in a lightweight package. With its innovative features and precision engineering, this cam ensures climbers can tackle challenging routes without the burden of excess weight. 1. CNC-machined construction reduces weight by 40% compared to the original Master Cam, enhancing portability. 2. Four-lobe design with a single axle and stem offers a streamlined profile for smooth operation. 3. Range Finder dots on the lobes simplify placement decisions, indicating optimal positioning with color-coded signals. 4. Color-coded triggers and webbing facilitate quick size identification during climbs. 5. Replaceable UHMWPE Monster Sling maintains durability while keeping the overall weight minimal across ten sizes. 6. Available in sizes ranging from 00 to 8, accommodating a variety of crack widths for diverse climbing scenarios. 7. Ideal for both trad and alpine climbers, ensuring confidence in gear choices on long, demanding routes. The Ultralight Master Cam is designed for trad climbers and alpine adventurers seeking a lightweight yet dependable camming solution. It excels in rocky environments where precision placements are crucial, particularly in multi-pitch climbs and extended alpine routes. This cam is perfect for climbers of all skill levels who prioritize efficiency and performance, especially in situations where every ounce counts. Ideal for spring and summer climbing seasons, it ensures climbers can focus on their ascent without the distraction of cumbersome gear.
Price: $69.95 - $74.95
- Who it's for
- Climbers who want lighter cams for granite and alpine routes, and those who need sizes that fall between standard Black Diamond cam sizes. Most useful in the smaller sizes (00–4).
- What people are saying
- Hosts consistently praise the lighter weight and the way smaller sizes fill gaps between BD sizes, particularly for thin and finger cracks. The main recurring criticism is the absence of a thumb loop.
- Worth noting
- Hosts recommend prioritizing sizes 00–4; the larger sizes (black/#5 and up) get less consistent endorsement. Notes are otherwise thin on durability or fit caveats beyond the missing thumb loop.
Owen Duda's review
Personally, I love the Master Cams. They get a lot of slack, mostly for not having a thumb loop. The only sizes I find I constantly use of the #0, 1, 2, 3, 4 (purple, blue, yellow, orange. I sometimes find myself using the black one, as it seems more on par with a BD 0.75 vs the red #5.
Recommended by Owen Duda, Climber, Guide, Craftsman, Writer
Frequently asked questions
Who is the Ultralight Master Cam sets for?
Climbers who want lighter cams for granite and alpine routes, and those who need sizes that fall between standard Black Diamond cam sizes. Most useful in the smaller sizes (00–4).
What do experts say about the Ultralight Master Cam sets?
Hosts consistently praise the lighter weight and the way smaller sizes fill gaps between BD sizes, particularly for thin and finger cracks. The main recurring criticism is the absence of a thumb loop.
What should you know before buying the Ultralight Master Cam sets?
Hosts recommend prioritizing sizes 00–4; the larger sizes (black/#5 and up) get less consistent endorsement. Notes are otherwise thin on durability or fit caveats beyond the missing thumb loop.
What does Owen Duda say about the Ultralight Master Cam sets?
Personally, I love the Master Cams. They get a lot of slack, mostly for not having a thumb loop. The only sizes I find I constantly use of the #0, 1, 2, 3, 4 (purple, blue, yellow, orange. I sometimes find myself using the black one, as it seems more on par with a BD 0.75 vs the red #5.
Why does Owen Duda recommend Metolius?
Owen Duda recommends the Metolius Ultralight Master Cam sets for climbing protection. Personally, I love the Master Cams. They get a lot of slack, mostly for not having a thumb loop. The only sizes I find I constantly use of the #0, 1, 2, 3, 4 (purple, blue, yellow, orange. I sometimes find myself using the black one, as it seems more on par with a BD 0.75 vs the red #5.
Is the Ultralight Master Cam sets a good climbing protection?
Yes — Owen Duda recommends the Ultralight Master Cam sets by Metolius as their climbing protection pick. Personally, I love the Master Cams. They get a lot of slack, mostly for not having a thumb loop. The only sizes I find I constantly use of the #0, 1, 2, 3, 4 (purple, blue, yellow, orange. I sometimes find myself using the black one, as it seems more on par with a BD 0.75 vs the red #5.
More from Owen Duda's Trad Climbing
View Owen Duda's expert gear recommendations on Rendezvu
What other hosts are saying
4 experts recommend the Metolius Ultralight Master Cam sets.
Spencer Huffman, Rock and Alpine Guide | Climbing Instructor and Coach
Great in the smaller cams for in between the BD sizes.
Recommended in Trad Climbing Gear
These are my favorite cams for smaller cracks. They also fit in between the Black Diamond sizes. I recommend purchasing these cams in sizes 00-4 (00, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4). The corresponding colors are: Grey, Purple, Blue, Yellow, Orange, and Red.
Recommended in Trad Gear
My favorite light cams, especially for granite alpine zones. Lighter than the competition and a greater available size range.
Recommended in Multi-Day Alpine