Brand: Black Diamond
Category: Belay & Rappel Devices
Recommended by Peter Thomas, Guide — Golden, CO
Highlights: durable, multipitch
The Black Diamond ATC-Guide Belay Device is an essential tool for climbers seeking versatility and reliability. Now 10% lighter, it offers improved handling and multiple friction modes, making it ideal for both belaying and rappelling in various climbing scenarios. 1. Lightweight Design: 10% lighter than previous models for enhanced portability without sacrificing performance. 2. Improved Handling: Features an oval-ized anchor-hole for easier rope feeding and pulling. 3. Multiple Friction Modes: Offers adjustable stopping power for optimal control when lowering or rappelling. 4. Guide Mode Capability: Allows for the belaying of one or two seconding climbers off an anchor, enhancing safety and efficiency. 5. Durable Construction: Built with high-quality materials to withstand the rigors of climbing and ensure long-lasting use. 6. Versatile Use: Suitable for various climbing styles, including sport, trad, and multi-pitch routes. 7. Compact Size: Designed for easy storage in your climbing pack, making it a convenient addition to your gear. The ATC-Guide Belay Device is perfect for climbers of all skill levels looking to enhance their belaying and rappelling experience. It excels in various environments, from indoor climbing gyms to rugged outdoor cliffs. Ideal for multi-pitch climbs, it allows for safe belaying of multiple climbers simultaneously. This device is a must-have for any climbing expedition, regardless of the season or weather conditions, ensuring safety and efficiency in every ascent.
Price: $54.95
- Who it's for
- Climbers who want a single device that handles lead belay, top/anchor belay in guide/auto-blocking mode, and rappel — especially those doing multi-pitch. A strong pick for anyone who doesn't yet own a plaquette-style device and wants to avoid buying multiple tools.
- What people are saying
- Hosts consistently call it the standard tube-style device, praising its smooth rope feeding and versatile guide-mode functionality. The main recurring comparison is with the Petzl Reverso — one host wavers between the two but favors the ATC Guide's feeding and "ear" orientation; others consider it the clear winner.
- Worth noting
- Wider rope slots than competitors are noted as a practical advantage for two-follower anchor belay scenarios. One host returned to it after trying alternatives, citing durability wear on a previous unit — normal for heavy use.
Peter Thomas's review
This is my favorite "Guide Style" belay device due to the way it orients, and slightly wider slots for belaying two ropes.
Recommended by Peter Thomas, Guide
Frequently asked questions
Who is the ATC-Guide Belay Device for?
Climbers who want a single device that handles lead belay, top/anchor belay in guide/auto-blocking mode, and rappel — especially those doing multi-pitch. A strong pick for anyone who doesn't yet own a plaquette-style device and wants to avoid buying multiple tools.
What do experts say about the ATC-Guide Belay Device?
Hosts consistently call it the standard tube-style device, praising its smooth rope feeding and versatile guide-mode functionality. The main recurring comparison is with the Petzl Reverso — one host wavers between the two but favors the ATC Guide's feeding and "ear" orientation; others consider it the clear winner.
What should you know before buying the ATC-Guide Belay Device?
Wider rope slots than competitors are noted as a practical advantage for two-follower anchor belay scenarios. One host returned to it after trying alternatives, citing durability wear on a previous unit — normal for heavy use.
What does Peter Thomas say about the ATC-Guide Belay Device?
This is my favorite "Guide Style" belay device due to the way it orients, and slightly wider slots for belaying two ropes.
Why does Peter Thomas recommend Black Diamond?
Peter Thomas recommends the Black Diamond ATC-Guide Belay Device for belay & rappel devices. This is my favorite "Guide Style" belay device due to the way it orients, and slightly wider slots for belaying two ropes.
Is the ATC-Guide Belay Device a good belay & rappel device?
Yes — Peter Thomas recommends the ATC-Guide Belay Device by Black Diamond as their belay & rappel devices pick. This is my favorite "Guide Style" belay device due to the way it orients, and slightly wider slots for belaying two ropes.
More from Peter Thomas's General Climbing Gear
View Peter Thomas's expert gear recommendations on Rendezvu
What other hosts are saying
11 experts recommend the Black Diamond ATC-Guide Belay Device.
Cora Hanson, AMGA Single Pitch Instructor
The device I use primarily for rappelling and can also be used as a lightweight option to belay one or two followers from above.
Recommended in Sport Climbing
Teddy Dondanville, AMGA Assistant Rock Guide & Certified Single Pitch Instructor
The Black Diamond ATC is the mother of all tube-style devices. It can do it all– lead belay, belay in guide mode, and rappel. This is a critical tool to have on your harness.
Recommended in Belay and Rappel Devices
Spencer Huffman, Rock and Alpine Guide | Climbing Instructor and Coach
The best quiver-of-one plaquette/tube-style device by a mile. Wider aperture (hole size) than its competitors for advanced top-belay scenarios with 1 or 2 climbers. Buy this first for rappels over a standard tube style device so you don't have to buy a second one later!
Recommended in Basic Outdoor Kit
Also necessary. Must know how to use. Dont leave home without it. Belaying will save everyones lives
Recommended in Cool climbing gear
This was my first tube-style device with an eye for belaying in an auto-blocking mode. I tried another device for a while after my first ATC Guide wore out, but eventually came back to this one. I find it smoother to feed and the orientation of the "ear" on the back to be superior to alternatives like the Petzl Reverso and Camp Piu.
Recommended in Robert's Favorites
The standard; simple and multi-purpose.
Recommended in Mountaineering - Where I Would Start
Owen Duda, Climber, Guide, Craftsman, Writer
Another incredible ATC guide, similar to Reverso but Black Diamond brand
Recommended in Starter Rock Package
Michael Murphy, Rock Climbing Instructor and Business Owner
I waffle back and forth between the ATC Guide and the Reverso from Petzl. I like the attachment of the Reverso to the anchor, but I like the feeding of the ATC Guide. Both are good-- I'm currently using the ATC Guide.
Recommended in Guide Kit
Brad Burns, PCGI Single Pitch Instructor, La Sportiva Athlete
The standard for ATC devices. Works great for rappelling, and works to belay from the ground or from an anchor from above.
Recommended in Ice Climbing
A must have for multi-pitch climbing! This device can do it all-lead belay, top belay, and rappel.
Recommended in Rock Climbing Mentorship Program
