Brand: Black Diamond
Category: Belay & Rappel Devices
Recommended by Michael Murphy, Rock Climbing Instructor and Business Owner — Philadelphia, PA
The ATC-Guide Belay Device by Black Diamond is an essential tool for climbers seeking versatility and reliability. Its lightweight design and enhanced handling capabilities make it perfect for both belaying and rappelling in various climbing scenarios. 1. Weighs 10% less than previous models, ensuring minimal bulk during climbs. 2. Features an oval-ized anchor-hole for smoother rope feeding and easier rope retrieval. 3. Offers multiple friction modes, allowing climbers to adjust stopping power based on their needs. 4. Equipped with a guide mode that enables belaying one or two climbers from a single anchor point. 5. Constructed from durable materials designed to withstand the rigors of climbing environments. 6. Compatible with a wide range of rope diameters, enhancing its usability across different climbing setups. 7. Compact design fits easily into any climbing gear bag without taking up excessive space. The ATC-Guide Belay Device is designed for climbers of all skill levels, making it ideal for both beginners and seasoned professionals. It excels in various climbing environments, from sport routes to multi-pitch ascents, and is particularly useful in situations where multiple climbers need to be belayed simultaneously. This device is perfect for outdoor adventures during spring and summer months when climbing activities are at their peak.
Price: $54.95
- Who it's for
- Multi-pitch and trad climbers who need one device for lead belaying, top/anchor belaying in guide mode, and rappelling. Suits anyone wanting a single plaquette-style device instead of carrying multiple tools.
- What people are saying
- Hosts consistently praise its smooth rope feeding and wider slots for guide-mode belaying of one or two followers. The main recurring comparison is against the Petzl Reverso — hosts are split on anchor attachment (Reverso edge) vs. rope feeding and ear orientation (ATC-Guide edge), with most landing on the ATC-Guide.
- Worth noting
- Wider aperture than key competitors is a noted functional advantage for two-follower top belaying. One host mentioned wearing out a first unit and returning to this model, suggesting normal long-term wear is expected.
Michael Murphy's review
I waffle back and forth between the ATC Guide and the Reverso from Petzl. I like the attachment of the Reverso to the anchor, but I like the feeding of the ATC Guide. Both are good-- I'm currently using the ATC Guide.
Recommended by Michael Murphy, Rock Climbing Instructor and Business Owner
Frequently asked questions
Who is the ATC-Guide Belay Device for?
Multi-pitch and trad climbers who need one device for lead belaying, top/anchor belaying in guide mode, and rappelling. Suits anyone wanting a single plaquette-style device instead of carrying multiple tools.
What do experts say about the ATC-Guide Belay Device?
Hosts consistently praise its smooth rope feeding and wider slots for guide-mode belaying of one or two followers. The main recurring comparison is against the Petzl Reverso — hosts are split on anchor attachment (Reverso edge) vs. rope feeding and ear orientation (ATC-Guide edge), with most landing on the ATC-Guide.
What should you know before buying the ATC-Guide Belay Device?
Wider aperture than key competitors is a noted functional advantage for two-follower top belaying. One host mentioned wearing out a first unit and returning to this model, suggesting normal long-term wear is expected.
What does Michael Murphy say about the ATC-Guide Belay Device?
I waffle back and forth between the ATC Guide and the Reverso from Petzl. I like the attachment of the Reverso to the anchor, but I like the feeding of the ATC Guide. Both are good-- I'm currently using the ATC Guide.
Why does Michael Murphy recommend Black Diamond?
Michael Murphy recommends the Black Diamond ATC-Guide Belay Device for belay & rappel devices. I waffle back and forth between the ATC Guide and the Reverso from Petzl. I like the attachment of the Reverso to the anchor, but I like the feeding of the ATC Guide. Both are good-- I'm currently using the ATC Guide.
Is the ATC-Guide Belay Device a good belay & rappel device?
Yes — Michael Murphy recommends the ATC-Guide Belay Device by Black Diamond as their belay & rappel devices pick. I waffle back and forth between the ATC Guide and the Reverso from Petzl. I like the attachment of the Reverso to the anchor, but I like the feeding of the ATC Guide. Both are good-- I'm currently using the ATC Guide.
More from Michael Murphy's Guide Kit
View Michael Murphy's expert gear recommendations on Rendezvu
What other hosts are saying
9 experts recommend the Black Diamond ATC-Guide Belay Device.
Cora Hanson, AMGA Single Pitch Instructor
The device I use primarily for rappelling and can also be used as a lightweight option to belay one or two followers from above.
Recommended in Sport Climbing
Teddy Dondanville, AMGA Assistant Rock Guide & Certified Single Pitch Instructor
The Black Diamond ATC is the mother of all tube-style devices. It can do it all– lead belay, belay in guide mode, and rappel. This is a critical tool to have on your harness.
Recommended in Belay and Rappel Devices
Spencer Huffman, Rock and Alpine Guide | Climbing Instructor and Coach
The best quiver-of-one plaquette/tube-style device by a mile. Wider aperture (hole size) than its competitors for advanced top-belay scenarios with 1 or 2 climbers. Buy this first for rappels over a standard tube style device so you don't have to buy a second one later!
Recommended in Basic Outdoor Kit
This is my favorite "Guide Style" belay device due to the way it orients, and slightly wider slots for belaying two ropes.
Recommended in General Climbing Gear
This was my first tube-style device with an eye for belaying in an auto-blocking mode. I tried another device for a while after my first ATC Guide wore out, but eventually came back to this one. I find it smoother to feed and the orientation of the "ear" on the back to be superior to alternatives like the Petzl Reverso and Camp Piu.
Recommended in Robert's Favorites
Owen Duda, Climber, Guide, Craftsman, Writer
Another incredible ATC guide, similar to Reverso but Black Diamond brand
Recommended in Starter Rock Package
Brad Burns, PCGI Single Pitch Instructor, La Sportiva Athlete
The standard for ATC devices. Works great for rappelling, and works to belay from the ground or from an anchor from above.
Recommended in Ice Climbing
A must have for multi-pitch climbing! This device can do it all-lead belay, top belay, and rappel.
Recommended in Rock Climbing Mentorship Program
