Brand: Black Diamond
Category: Ice Axes & Tools
Recommended by Dan Morley, Rock Climbing Guide — Gambrills, MD
Highlights: lightweight, durable
The Black Diamond Express Ice Screw 19 cm is engineered for rapid placement and exceptional bite in ice, making it an essential tool for climbers seeking reliability and efficiency in challenging conditions. Its innovative design ensures quick, secure anchoring, allowing you to focus on your ascent with confidence. 1. Length: 19 cm, providing optimal depth for secure placements in various ice conditions. 2. Fast Placement: Designed for quick insertion, allowing climbers to spend less time setting anchors and more time climbing. 3. Unique Thread Design: Features a tapered, aggressive thread pattern that bites into ice for superior holding power. 4. Ergonomic Handle: Equipped with a user-friendly handle for easy turning, even in cold conditions or with gloves. 5. Lightweight Construction: Crafted from durable materials that minimize weight without compromising strength, ideal for alpine climbs. 6. Color-Coded: Distinctive colors for easy identification and selection during climbs, enhancing efficiency and safety. 7. Versatile Use: Suitable for a wide range of ice climbing scenarios, from beginner to advanced routes. The Black Diamond Express Ice Screw 19 cm is perfect for ice climbing enthusiasts looking to tackle frozen waterfalls, alpine routes, or mixed terrain. It excels in cold, icy environments, making it ideal for winter climbing and mountaineering. This product is designed for climbers of all skill levels, from novices to seasoned pros, and is particularly beneficial in scenarios where quick and reliable placements are crucial for safety and performance.
Price: $99.95
- Who it's for
- Ice climbers building out a standard screw rack for ice cragging and smaller backcountry objectives. Hosts recommend carrying multiples across sizes (10cm, 13cm, 16cm, 22cm), with the 13cm and 16cm making up the bulk of a typical 8–12 screw kit.
- What people are saying
- Hosts call these the standard for ice screws and a favorite for full ice climbing. One notes lighter, pricier options exist for big alpine missions, but these are considered durable and capable enough for most use cases.
- Worth noting
- Carry one on each side of the harness — both for multi-anchor setups and because a fall may limit access to one side of the body. Not flagged as the lightest option if weight is a priority on serious alpine objectives.
Dan Morley's review
These are fantastic screws that are built to last. There are lighter (and more expensive) screws on the market for big alpine missions but these get the job done nicely for ice craggin' and smaller backcountry objectives.
Recommended by Dan Morley, Rock Climbing Guide
Frequently asked questions
Who is the Black Diamond Express Ice Screw for?
Ice climbers building out a standard screw rack for ice cragging and smaller backcountry objectives. Hosts recommend carrying multiples across sizes (10cm, 13cm, 16cm, 22cm), with the 13cm and 16cm making up the bulk of a typical 8–12 screw kit.
What do experts say about the Black Diamond Express Ice Screw?
Hosts call these the standard for ice screws and a favorite for full ice climbing. One notes lighter, pricier options exist for big alpine missions, but these are considered durable and capable enough for most use cases.
What should you know before buying the Black Diamond Express Ice Screw?
Carry one on each side of the harness — both for multi-anchor setups and because a fall may limit access to one side of the body. Not flagged as the lightest option if weight is a priority on serious alpine objectives.
What does Dan Morley say about the Black Diamond Express Ice Screw?
These are fantastic screws that are built to last. There are lighter (and more expensive) screws on the market for big alpine missions but these get the job done nicely for ice craggin' and smaller backcountry objectives.
Why does Dan Morley recommend Black Diamond?
Dan Morley recommends the Black Diamond Black Diamond Express Ice Screw for ice axes & tools. These are fantastic screws that are built to last. There are lighter (and more expensive) screws on the market for big alpine missions but these get the job done nicely for ice craggin' and smaller backcountry objectives.
Is the Black Diamond Express Ice Screw a good ice axes & tool?
Yes — Dan Morley recommends the Black Diamond Express Ice Screw by Black Diamond as their ice axes & tools pick. These are fantastic screws that are built to last. There are lighter (and more expensive) screws on the market for big alpine missions but these get the job done nicely for ice craggin' and smaller backcountry objectives.
More from Dan Morley's Ice Climbing Gear
View Dan Morley's expert gear recommendations on Rendezvu
What other hosts are saying
4 experts recommend the Black Diamond Express Ice Screw.
Cassidy Higgins, Avalanche Forecaster, AMGA apprentice Rock and Alpine guide
My favorite screws for full ice climbing.
Recommended in Alpine climbing gear
Brad Burns, PCGI Single Pitch Instructor, La Sportiva Athlete
The standard for ice screws. These bad-boys will make up the majority of your screw kit. I normally bring 8-12 screws with me, depending on the size and difficulty of the pitch. This normally means bringing: 1-2x 10cm Ice Screw (red), 5x 13cm screws (yellow), 3x 16cm ice screws (blue), 1x 22cm ice screw (purple) for v-threads.
Recommended in Ice Climbing
Sam Vinter, Ultrarunner | Mountain Athlete | BJJ | Strength | Recovery | Adventure | Lifestyle
Good to have one on each side of your harness. Functionally so you can anchor in multiple places should you need. Secondly if you fall you may only be able to access one side of your body with ease.
Recommended in Mountaineering
