Expert Gear Picks from Dan Morley

    Expert climb gear recommendations from Dan Morley, Rock Climbing Guide, based in Gambrills, MD.

    Dan Morley's Top Rope Anchor Gear

    Your first gear list to get started

    • Dan Morley recommends the Black Diamond RockLock Screwgate Carabiner — Solid HMS carabiner for your TR anchor master point (you'll need two). I like the good ol' screw gate version but Twistlocks (auto-lockers) are popular as well.

    • Dan Morley recommends the PMI PMI E-Z Bend Sport 11 mm Non-Dry Static Rope White 11 Mm — This is a beefy static rope with a substantial sheath for maximum abrasion resistance and durability. Available in pre-cut 150' length or sold by the foot. I recommend 100' minimum for rigging anchors.

    • Dan Morley recommends the Black Diamond HotForge Screwgate Carabiner — I love these basic-style carabiners for general use. I recommend having a minimum of two for your TR anchor-building needs. You'll need more as your systems and terrain expand; also available in a 3-pack.

    • Dan Morley recommends the Sterling 6.8 mm HollowBlock2 Loop - 13.5 in. — To make a klemheist hitch to the static rope for your personal fall protection while working at the edge. This device can also be used for ascending, descending, and rescue systems.

    • Dan Morley recommends the Mammut Dyneema Contact Sling - 8mm — A 120cm version of this sling works great as a personal tether when building a top rope anchor. Pair it with Hollowblock Loop and a couple carabiners. Also can be used a part of a kit to ascend a rope.

    • Dan Morley recommends the Mammut Crag We Care Classic 9.5 mm Non-Dry Rope — This is the budget option for a good dynamic climbing rope for your outdoor climbing adventures. It's environmentally friendly in that they use material that would otherwise be discarded. The compromise for the great price is that the color won't be known until it arrives :)<div>60 meters is the standard rope length and what I would recommend.</div>

    • Dan Morley recommends the Edelrid Tommy Caldwell Eco Dry DuoTec 9.6 mm Dry Rope — This is a solid mid-grade option for an all around outdoors dynamic climbing rope. It has a bi-pattern design and is dry treated.

    • Dan Morley recommends the Sterling Velocity 9.8 BiColor XEROS Rope — This is my go-to dynamic rope for rock guiding and trad climbing!&nbsp;<div>Excellent durability and abrasion resistance, great handling, high visibility bi-pattern design, and top-notch dry treatment make this a no-compromise rope option.&nbsp;</div><div>This is my recommendation for a premium dynamic rope that is up for any mission!</div><div>60 meters is the standard rope length and what I would recommend.</div>

    • Dan Morley recommends the Petzl GRIGRI Belay Device — I highly recommend getting a GRIGRI device for belaying at the crag. It adds a level of protection that you don't get with a standard ATC.

    • Dan Morley recommends the Black Diamond Black Diamond HotForge Screwgate Carabiners - Package of 3 Gray — I love these basic-style carabiners for general use. I recommend having a minimum of two for your TR anchor-building needs. You'll need more as your skills and terrain expand; the three-pack is a good deal. Also available as singles for ~$15 each.

    Dan Morley's Personal Climbing Gear

    • Dan Morley recommends the Petzl Petzl GRIGRI Belay Device Gray — The gold standard of belay devices and my personal recommendation.

    • Dan Morley recommends the Petzl Petzl Freino Autolocking Carabiner — I recommend pairing this carabiner with your GRIGRI. The spur provides additional friction for more control while lowering your climber and can also be used in rescue/ hauling systems. This is the carabiner that Petzl recommends be used with the GRIGRI.

    • Dan Morley recommends the Petzl Petzl Connect Adjust — My favorite personal tether. Very quick to secure and convenient to adjust. Pair with a Petzl Attache auto-locking carabiner.

    • Dan Morley recommends the Petzl Sm'D Twist Lock Carabiner — Pair with the Petzl Connect Adjust

    • Dan Morley recommends the BlueWater BlueWater VT Prusik — My recommendation for backing up your rappel (third hand) with an autoblock hitch. Has a better hand feel and tends to be smoother than a hollow block.

    • Dan Morley recommends the Black Diamond Crag 40 Backpack — My go-to pack for guiding, trad climbing, and/or craggin'! Very sturdy and durable material with a reinforced bottom. I especially like the zippered side that allows access to bottom contents without unloading everything.

    • Dan Morley recommends the Black Diamond Black Diamond Half Dome Helmet Blue S/M — Good budget option for a climbing helmet. I used this helmet for years, just recently switched to a lighter weight option.

    • Dan Morley recommends the Black Diamond Black Diamond Vapor Climbing Helmet White S/M — My current climbing helmet--super lightweight and breaths well in the heat. But definitely more a premium option for the price.

    • Dan Morley recommends the Black Diamond Men's Technician Pro Approach Shoes — I recently started wearing a pair of these BD approach shoes for guiding and like the fit and performance so far.

    • Dan Morley recommends the La Sportiva TC Pro — My go-to outdoor climbing shoe. I love that they offer added protection around the ankles for gnarly crack climbs and thorny adventure climbs. Great fit and performance right out of the box!

    Dan Morley's Trad Climbing Gear

    • Dan Morley recommends the Black Diamond Camalot Z4 Cam — The Z4's are my favorite cams on the market. Since they are only available for the small sizes (0 to 0.75), I would recommend buying Z4's in all the sizes available, then get C4's for the larger sized cams. For full-rack quantities, you'll want two of each for size 0.3 to size 3. Only one cam needed for sizes 0, 0.1, 0.2, and 4.

    • Dan Morley recommends the Black Diamond Camalot C4 Cam — C4's are the standard by which all other cams are measured and, in my opinion, the best value for your money. While I do prefer the Z4's for the sizes they're available, I also own C4's in all the sizes and they perform great. My recommendation for building a full rack of cams to tackle nearly any climb: get one of each of sizes 0, 0.1, 0.2, and 4; get two of each in sizes 0.3 to 3.

    • Dan Morley recommends the Black Diamond Black Diamond LiteWire Rackpack — You'll need a racking carabiner for each cam that you own, color matched. Buying the BD Rackpack can save a little money but each of these colors is also available in singles.

    • Dan Morley recommends the Black Diamond Wired Stopper Set — Gotta have a rack of passive protection! Some call these nuts, some call them stoppers. I recommend just carrying one set of these to supplement your active protection pieces while trad climbing.

    • Dan Morley recommends the Wild Country Pro-Key Nut Tool + Leash — If you carry stoppers, you need to also carry a nut tool. I like this Wild Country nut tool for the leash that prevents accidental drops.

    • Dan Morley recommends the Camp C.A.M.P. Tricam EVO - Set of 4 — Some people love tricams, some hate them--personally, I love them! Can be used as either passive or active protection and can be very useful in the right situation. I recommend carrying a set of these while trad climbing to compliment your cams and nuts.

    • Dan Morley recommends the Metolius Metolius Multi-loop Contour Gear Sling Multi-Colored — This sling is how I rack my cams for trad climbing. Some people rack cams directly onto the gear loops their harness; I prefer to use this gear sling so that I can quickly rack up and easily swap leads. It also allows me to keep my harness gear organized as normal.

    • Dan Morley recommends the Black Diamond Miniwire Alpine Quickdraw 3 Pack — You'll need alpine draws to connect your protection to your rope while leading. In some cases, you'll want to extend your draw to prevent rope drag and reduce abrasion. This is one of the reasons we use alpine draws in lieu of of quickdraws. An alpine draw typically consists of a 60cm sewn sling and two non-locking carabiners. However, for extending past roofs, you'll want a couple double-length (120cm) alpine draws. You can either buy a sling and two non-lockers to make your own alpine draw or buy a pre-made alpine draw, usually in sets of three or four. The pre-made option will save you a few dollars per draw but you can't customize your color scheme. I prefer black carabiners for my draws so that I don't confuse them with the racking carabiners for the cams.

    • Dan Morley recommends the Black Diamond C4 Camalot Set — Buying cams in sets offers a better deal than buying strictly as singles.

    • Dan Morley recommends the Black Diamond Black Diamond LiteWire Carabiner Black — For building your own alpine draws, use two non-locking carabiners like these and add a sewn sling.&nbsp;<div>I recommend using black carabiners for your alpine draws so they don't conflict with the colors of your racking carabiners.</div><div>This LiteWire series is a little bigger and better for larger hands.</div>

    Dan Morley's Ice Climbing Gear

    • Dan Morley recommends the Black Diamond Hydra Ice Tool — My go-to ice climbing tools. They swing and perform very nicely!

    • Dan Morley recommends the La Sportiva Nepal EVO GTX — Solid ice climbing boots at a reasonable price. There are fancier and more expensive boots out there but these will get the job done and keep your feet warm. I've owned two pairs of these and they both fit great right out of the box.

    • Dan Morley recommends the Petzl Petzl Dart Crampons Orange — My go-to crampon for ice or mixed routes. Very lightweight, secure, and excellent performance!

    • Dan Morley recommends the Black Diamond Black Diamond Express Ice Screw — These are fantastic screws that are built to last. There are lighter (and more expensive) screws on the market for big alpine missions but these get the job done nicely for ice craggin' and smaller backcountry objectives.

    • Dan Morley recommends the Black Diamond Black Diamond Ice Clipper Black — Solid choice for ice clipper, well built.

    • Dan Morley recommends the Black Diamond Black Diamond Men's Technician Harness — I love this harness for ice--there are spots to add four ice clippers to the harness for all your ice screw and ice tool racking needs :)

    • Dan Morley recommends the Petzl Petzl Nomic Ice Tool — Can't go wrong with the Nomics, I swung these tools for years with great results!

    Dan Morley
    Be kind to yourself and others!

    Dan Morley

    Rock Climbing Guide
    Dan Morley
    Be kind to yourself and others!

    Dan Morley

    Rock Climbing Guide
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    About Dan

    My favorite activities as an outdoorsperson are rock climbing, ice climbing, skiing, paddling, and trail running--with my passions being trad climbing and leading ice. Working as an AMGA Single Pitch Instructor allows me to share my skills and experience with folks new to climbing and those looking to move to the next level. If you've ever climbed with me or taken one of my courses, you know I love talking about gear and love helping people find the right gear for their future endeavors!

    Details

    DisciplineClimb
    SpecialityRock
    LocationGambrills, MD
    JoinedOct 2025

    Highlights

    01Traditional rock climbing in Colorado, Wyoming, California, New Hampshire, Maine, New York, West Virginia, Virginia, and Maryland.
    02Many seasons climbing ice in Ouray, CO and in locations in the Northeast, including the White Mountains in NH & the Adirondacks and the Catskill Mountains in NY.
    RockLock Screwgate Carabiner
    Black Diamond · $20RockLock Screwgate Carabiner
    Dan“Solid HMS carabiner for your TR anchor master point (you'll need two). I like the good ol' screw gate version but Twistlocks (auto-lockers) are popular as well.”