Brand: Metolius

Category: Climbing Protection

Recommended by Spencer Huffman, Rock and Alpine Guide | Climbing Instructor and Coach — San Diego, CA

Highlights: lightweight, durable

The Ultralight Master Cam is a cutting-edge climbing tool designed for optimal performance and reduced weight, making it an essential addition to any climber's gear. With its innovative design and superior holding power, this cam provides confidence and reliability on the rock. 1. Weighs 20% less than traditional models, significantly reducing your overall gear load. 2. Features a flexible, single-stem design that enhances versatility and ease of placement. 3. Optimized cam angle increases holding power, ensuring secure placements in various rock types. 4. New shark fin tooth pattern provides superior grip in soft rock, enhancing stability during climbs. 5. Compact size allows for easy storage and transport, making it ideal for multi-pitch climbs. 6. Constructed from durable materials that withstand the rigors of outdoor use while maintaining lightweight properties. The Ultralight Master Cam is perfect for rock climbers seeking to minimize weight without sacrificing performance. It excels in both sport and trad climbing scenarios, particularly in soft rock environments where its unique tooth pattern enhances grip. Ideal for climbers of all skill levels, this cam is especially beneficial for those who frequently carry multiple pieces of gear, allowing for a more efficient climbing experience. Whether tackling challenging routes in the summer or preparing for alpine adventures, this cam is designed to meet the demands of serious climbers.

Price: $69.95

Who it's for: Climbers who want lighter cams for granite and alpine routes, and those who need sizes that fall between standard Black Diamond cam sizes. Most useful in the smaller sizes (00–4).
What people are saying: Hosts consistently praise the lighter weight and the way smaller sizes fill gaps between BD sizes, particularly for thin and finger cracks. The main recurring criticism is the absence of a thumb loop.
Worth noting: Hosts recommend prioritizing sizes 00–4; the larger sizes (black/#5 and up) get less consistent endorsement. Notes are otherwise thin on durability or fit caveats beyond the missing thumb loop.

Spencer Huffman's review

Great in the smaller cams for in between the BD sizes.

Recommended by Spencer Huffman, Rock and Alpine Guide | Climbing Instructor and Coach

Frequently asked questions

Who is the Ultralight Master Cam for?

Climbers who want lighter cams for granite and alpine routes, and those who need sizes that fall between standard Black Diamond cam sizes. Most useful in the smaller sizes (00–4).

What do experts say about the Ultralight Master Cam?

Hosts consistently praise the lighter weight and the way smaller sizes fill gaps between BD sizes, particularly for thin and finger cracks. The main recurring criticism is the absence of a thumb loop.

What should you know before buying the Ultralight Master Cam?

Hosts recommend prioritizing sizes 00–4; the larger sizes (black/#5 and up) get less consistent endorsement. Notes are otherwise thin on durability or fit caveats beyond the missing thumb loop.

What does Spencer Huffman say about the Ultralight Master Cam?

Great in the smaller cams for in between the BD sizes.

Why does Spencer Huffman recommend Metolius?

Spencer Huffman recommends the Metolius Ultralight Master Cam for climbing protection. Great in the smaller cams for in between the BD sizes.

Is the Ultralight Master Cam a good climbing protection?

Yes — Spencer Huffman recommends the Ultralight Master Cam by Metolius as their climbing protection pick. Great in the smaller cams for in between the BD sizes.

More from Spencer Huffman's Trad Climbing Gear

View Spencer Huffman's expert gear recommendations on Rendezvu

Ultralight Master Cam

Purchasing through this link directly supports Spencer

Who it's for: Climbers who want lighter cams for granite and alpine routes, and those who need sizes that fall between standard Black Diamond cam sizes. Most useful in the smaller sizes (00–4).
What other hosts are saying: Hosts consistently praise the lighter weight and the way smaller sizes fill gaps between BD sizes, particularly for thin and finger cracks. The main recurring criticism is the absence of a thumb loop.
Worth noting: Hosts recommend prioritizing sizes 00–4; the larger sizes (black/#5 and up) get less consistent endorsement. Notes are otherwise thin on durability or fit caveats beyond the missing thumb loop.

Ultralight Master Cam

Who it's for: Climbers who want lighter cams for granite and alpine routes, and those who need sizes that fall between standard Black Diamond cam sizes. Most useful in the smaller sizes (00–4).
What other hosts are saying: Hosts consistently praise the lighter weight and the way smaller sizes fill gaps between BD sizes, particularly for thin and finger cracks. The main recurring criticism is the absence of a thumb loop.
Worth noting: Hosts recommend prioritizing sizes 00–4; the larger sizes (black/#5 and up) get less consistent endorsement. Notes are otherwise thin on durability or fit caveats beyond the missing thumb loop.

Purchasing through this link directly supports Spencer

What other hosts are saying

4 experts recommend the Metolius Ultralight Master Cam.

Doug Dobkowski, Outdoor Educator, Guide

These are my favorite cams for smaller cracks. They also fit in between the Black Diamond sizes. I recommend purchasing these cams in sizes 00-4 (00, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4). The corresponding colors are: Grey, Purple, Blue, Yellow, Orange, and Red.

Recommended in Trad Gear

Cage Vigil, Guide

My favorite light cams, especially for granite alpine zones. Lighter than the competition and a greater available size range.

Recommended in Multi-Day Alpine

Owen Duda, Climber, Guide, Craftsman, Writer

Personally, I love the Master Cams. They get a lot of slack, mostly for not having a thumb loop. The only sizes I find I constantly use of the #0, 1, 2, 3, 4 (purple, blue, yellow, orange. I sometimes find myself using the black one, as it seems more on par with a BD 0.75 vs the red #5.

Recommended in Trad Climbing