Petzl Dart Crampons Orange by Petzl — Best overall crampon right now! Climbs with the best of them, and can still be used to walk across glaciers and feel very normal underfoot. Lightweight and very modular to accommodate lots of fits/use cases.
Scarpa Phantom 6000 HD Mountaineering Boot by Scarpa
Injinji Run Lightweight Mini-Crew Socks Gray M by Injinji — Over the years I've found that a merino toe sock can do more to prevent blisters than pre-taping my normal hot-spot zones. Keep it thin, and I really like the running version that seems to stay on my foot perfectly throughout the day.
The Primaloft® hike socks by ODLO — Primaloft socks are great! They do not absorb nearly as much moisture ensuring things stay drier and less blister prone. Odlo has the best ones I've found on the market.
Eiger Nordwand FL Air Mesh Vest Men by Mammut — I've been using mesh base layers for years now, and love how much more versatile it makes my layering system. I feel so much less 'swampy' when working hard, and stay feeling warm throughout the day. Mammut upped the game with a mesh vest that is even more hydrophobic and keeps your core nice and dry (dry=comfortable and warm).
Patagonia Men's Airshed Pro Pullover Blue M by Patagonia
Patagonia Men's Nano-Air Light Hybrid Insulated Hoody Black M by Patagonia — When things get colder on the approach, or if you are ready to start climbing your main objective, throw on the Nano-Air Light Hybrid. This thing is a huge leap forward (warmer, lighter, more breathable, and dries quicker than fleece). This is the secret weapon for the 'action suit'.
(Optional)Arc'teryx Men's Proton Insulated Hoody Black L by Arc'teryx — Another great option for active insulation, esp if you run colder or your objective is colder. This one is warmer than the nano-air light, but also less breathable by design.
Squamish Hoody Men's by Arc'teryx — Unless things aren't going to be below freezing, this is my go to shell for alpine endeavors. Breaks the wind, repels snow and spindrift, and is featherweight.
Eiger Nordwand Pro HS Hooded Jacket Men by Mammut
DAS Light Hooded Jacket - Men's by Patagonia — Excellent layer to go over everything and keep you warm. For really cold objectives I bring two and love the ability to tailor what I'm wearing to what I need. Two of these over my full set up and I feel pretty damn good regardless of what the weather is doing.
Saxx Men's Quest Quick-Dry Boxer Briefs Blue XXL by Saxx
REI Co-op Men's Lightweight Base Layer Bottoms Gray L by REI Co-op
Mountain Equipment Kinesis Pant - Men's ME-004931-38-Obsidian-Black , Color: Obsidian/Black , 53% Off and Blazin' Deal w/ Free Shipping by Camp Saver
Black Diamond Men's Fineline Stretch Full-Zip Pants Black XL by Black Diamond — In years past I would recommend the patagonia houdini pants. With those now retired, get any light wind resistant pant that has full zip sides that fits you well. You can also go full shell here if needed for your objective.
(Optional) Eiger Nordwand Pro HS Pants Men by Mammut — Again, if your objective is super wet, cold, or windy you might want to go with a full gore pro shell layer. Mammut kills it in this category.
Photon Pant - Men's by Rab — Definitely on the heavier side overall, but what you get for the weight is amazing. Very warm and weather proof.
(Optional) DAS Light Pant - Men's by Patagonia — If you aren't going to be out in really severe weather you could opt for the DAS light pants. Super great for most outings, definitely a favorite. 65g/m plumafil is very effective.
Buff CoolNet UV Multifunctional Neckwear Red by Buff
(Optional) REI Co-op Under-Helmet Balaclava Black by REI Co-op — For the super cold objectives. Thin and hinged are the features to look for.
faceGlove FLEX by Outeru — Looks dorky, but is great to keep your nose from getting wind/sun burned. Keeps cheeks from freezing to on those super frosty days.
Bobcat by Smith Optics — Love photochromic lenses so I can keep my glasses on all day. These go all the way to clear to help with low viz days.
I am still coming around to these large lens glasses, they look strange, but they work really well....
Lightyear by Julbo — If it gets too wild for just glasses, these goggles are the ticket. Won't fog up (and trust me I can fog up any goggles), and do a great job managing variable light.
Arc'teryx Rho Glove Liners Black L by Arc'teryx — Liner gloves to add warmth. Can be dried at night to keep things civilized day after day.
Torque Gloves by Black Diamond — One of the best climbing gloves out there. Only downside is durability, make sure not to rappel or do much belay work in these to make them last.
ワークマンで雪中キャンプ用の手袋を買ってみた by Camp House — Good luck finding these Japanese gloves, but if you can they are great waterproof, durable, insulated climbing gloves.
Hestra Gloves Heli Three-Finger Insulated Gloves Gray 9 by Hestra Gloves — A great way to stay warm for belays, rappels, ski exits, et cetera. I will often just take the shell and use my other gloves underneath.
Light Quilt by Zenbivy — So comfortable! I am willing to sacrifice a little weight for good sleep in the backcountry, especially when I'll be out for a few days.
Light Sheet by Zenbivy — Goes with the quilt. Excellent comfort!
Summerlite Sleeping Bag: 32F Down by Western Mountaineering — Because of the continuous baffles, you can really get this thing to stretch into some cold temps. However, I have it in the list as an addition to the Zenbivy Light Bed. Combined these clock in at -40°F/C and will help ensure good sleep on your expedition.
*Bonus this can be your new summer sleeping bag!
Therm-a-Rest NeoAir XTherm NXT Sleeping Pad Gray Regular Wide by Therm-a-Rest — No longer the warmest for the weight, this is still the way to go since in my testing it actually sleeps warmer than the competition, and is far more durable. Some people lie on their technical specs but I've yet to see that from Therm-a-Rest.
7.3 R value is good enough to be the solo pad in the sleep system, even on super cold outings.
HotBox by SlingFin — Best overall mountaineering tent. For the minimal extra weight you get tons of features that make expeditions a little more livable.
Gully Ice Axe by Petzl — Climbs up to WI5 pretty well. Saves a bunch of weight and gets the job done. (Including other options depending on objective)
Corsa Nanotech Ice Axe by CAMP USA — For more general mountaineering routes without ice climbing pitches. (Including other options depending on objective)
C.A.M.P. X-Dream Ice Tool Black by Camp — Still my favorite ice tool. Great for technical ice/mixed routes and very modular to fit lots of different climbs. If you can only get one pair, get these! (Including other options depending on objective)
Prisma Guide Alpine Harness by Edelrid — Light, but full featured. Can be put on without taking off skis/crampons.
Ice Clipper by Black Diamond — Need 2-4 to rack screws and tools. I really like how wide the spine of the clipper is. They don't roll around in the ice clipper slots on your harness. Some people complain about being made of plastic, but I've never had an issue with them. I've been running the same set for >10 years and just jam them in my pack without regard.
Alpine ATC-Guide Belay Device by Black Diamond — Need something specific to handle small diameter ropes.
Sterling 6.8 mm HollowBlock2 Loop - 13.5 in. Khaki 6.8 Mm by Sterling — Great third-hand loop.
C.A.M.P. Orbit Lock Carabiner - Package of 3 Orange by Camp — As light as a Photon Locker, but a more round and compact beam that tends to fit better in blocked bolt hangers and piton eyes. Also, the rounder nature of the basket allows it to be used as the belay carabiner.
C.A.M.P. Rocket Plus Ice Screw 13 Cm by Camp — Ok, there are a lot of good screws out there these days. I still prefer these currently for a few reasons:
1. Because of the integrated draw, these are lighter than many aluminum screws + a draw
2. They have two clipping points which allow for quick in-series anchors to be made
3. They are full steel tubes which don't lock up in wet ice like most aluminum tubes do
4. They are really easy to get started and drive in because of the fixed crank arm
13cm is perfect for most of your rack (just make sure to dig down to good ice if the outer layers have gone bad - which is a better plan than trying to drill past the bad layer with a long screw).
Black Diamond Ultralight Ice Screw Green 19 Cm by Black Diamond — To save some weight I like to have my v-thread ice screw in aluminum 19 or 22 cm for a nice strong anchor.
C.A.M.P. Nano 22 Wiregate Carabiner Purple by Camp — I really like these on my ice screws, but they might be small for some followers. The Photon Wire or similar carabiner is a little more clipping and cleaning friendly.
(Optional)C.A.M.P. Photon Wire Straight Gate Carabiner Blue by Camp — Also a fantastic option for rope side work. Great on alpine draws, quick draws, or for racking cams. Definitely my main go-to carabiner.
BLUE ICE Missions Light Sling by Blue Ice — Great lightweight sling for extending pieces or anchor building.
Opera Golden Dry Climbing Rope by Beal — Love this line. Very good hand for such a thin/light rope. Triple rated, you can use this however you want. Usually start this as an ice climbing line since it's double dry treated, then as it wears in I'll move it to redpoint tries on my rock projects. Usually get 3-4 years of fairly regular use out of them. Not a workhorse rope, but worth the specialization.
Camalot™ Ultralight by Black Diamond — ~4 depending on the alpine objective. I like the .4-1 for most alpine adventures unless I know it'll be wider.
Wallnut Set by DMM — These seem to fit better than most other brands that I've tried. Love the Welsh attention to detail.
PRIMUS P-155S ULTRA SPIDER STOVE Ⅱ Japan made by Arc'teryx — Excellent stove for high altitude use. Sadly only available in Japan.
Fire-Maple Feast 1.5L Camping Gear Pot FMC-K2 | Easy to Clean Hard Anodized Aluminum and Stainless Steel | Backpacking Pot Cookware Set and Mess Kit | Camping Essentials & Accessories by Scala — Decent heat exchange pot at a great price. This size works best if shared between 2 to 3 people.
HydraPak 1 L Stow Bottle - 32 fl. oz. Blue by HydraPak — Collapsible bottle to keep in your layers while you climb (keeps it from freezing). In a pocket, or on a lanyard around your neck.
YETI Silo Half-Gallon Jug with MagDock Chug Cap - 64 fl. oz. Black by Yeti — Maybe cut off the handle, but large, double insulated containers like this are way more efficient to utilize than constantly melting snow and having it refreeze on you.
Ice 55L Backpack by Hyperlite Mountain Gear — Carries very well, and actually climbs pretty well too! Not often a pack does both well. Pretty stripped down to save weight and stay clean on route.
