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    Multipitch - Doug Dobkowski

    Doug Dobkowski's expert gear recommendations on Rendezvu

    Products in this list

    • Petzl Attache Carabiner Yellow by Petzl — The pear-shaped carabiner is my prefered carabiner for clove hitches, which is my primary tool for connecting myself to an anchor. I always bring four of these with me. I use one on my tube-style belay device, one on my assisted breaking device, I use one to secure myself via clove hitch, and the fourth one is for use in the event of self-rescue. Pear-shaped carabiners work great with the munter hitch. The Petzl Attache is my favorite Pear-shaped carabiner. The features that stand out for me is the red indicator when the carabiner is not locked, the round stock on top for the rope to run over, and the light weight design.
    • Petzl Sm'D Screw-Lock Carabiner Orange by Petzl — I like D-shaped locking carabiners for most things I need a locking carabiner for. The design of D-shaped locking carabiners lines the load up with the spine of the carabiner, which is the strongest part of the carabiner. I have one dedicated to clip my belay device to the anchor when belaying from above. I also use it to clip my 3rd hand to my harness when rapelling. I usually bring two of these when multi-pitch climbing. I prefer a screw gate when multi-pitch climbing because I worry about dropping an auto-locking carabiner while fiddling with the mechanism. I like the Sm'D because it is a light weight locking carabiner and is just big enough to take a clove hitch or a munter hitch.
    • Petzl Reverso Belay Device Gray by Petzl — This is the lightest guide-style belay device (meaning you can clip it directly to an anchor and belay from above). It is a simple and a reliable design and one of the most popular out there. Be careful when rapelling, this thing gets HOT!!!!
    • Edelrid Mega Jul Belay Device Gray by Edelrid — I recommend belaying the leader with an assisted braking device. You can use a GriGri (I do sometimes), but this is a great option that saves a lot of weight. It uses geometry, not a camming mechanism, to provide assisted breaking. I think that this added layer of security is almost always mandatory. There have been many accidents where the belayer has lost control of the belay. A device like this can prevent a catasrophic injury. An added benefit is that this device also works as a rappel device as well as belay and can belay from above. When I multipitch, each climber has a Petzl Reverso to belay from above and rappel and the group has one Edelrid Mega Jul to belay the leader and to use as a rappel device in the event that someone drops their reverso.
    • Sterling 6.8 mm HollowBlock2 Loop - 13.5 in. Khaki 6.8 Mm by Sterling — I use this as my "Third Hand" when rappeling. I like how it grabs the rope and it is made out of heat resistant material which is essential when rappelling.
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  1. Mammut Contact Sling Dyneema 8.0 Blue 120 Cm by Mammut — The 120 cm sling A.K.A. the "Double-Length" is twice as long as your alpine draw. I always have one of these with me to use as a tether and rappel extension. It also gets use as an extra sling or if you need to extend a piece of protection more than normal.
  2. Metolius Sling - 11 mm Multi-Colored Quad-Length Sling by Metolius — These are used for building anchors. The are long enough to encapsulate at least 3 pieces of gear or wrap around big trees. My climbing party always has 2 of these.
  3. PowerCord Cordelette - 5.9mm by Sterling — A cord like this can be used in self-rescue applications and as an anchor. I always have one with me when multipitch climbing. It can also be cut up and used if you have to bail.
  4. C.A.M.P. Photon Wire Straight Gate Carabiner Red by Camp — You will be clipping a lot of things to your harness. I really like to use the C.A.M.P. Photon to clip my double length sling, my 240cm sling, my cordalette, and whatever else I decide to bring. I like the Photon because it is one of the cheapest full-size carabiners; it is easy to operate with or without gloves; and it is light weight. If we have to bail, I am leaving these behind first.