Brand: Totem MT
Category: Climbing Protection
Recommended by John Willard, Founder & Lead Guide @ Willard Mountain Guides — Conway, NH
The Totem Cam is a revolutionary climbing cam that combines exceptional holding power with innovative design, featuring a patented Direct Loading system for unmatched performance. Lightweight yet durable, it is engineered for climbers seeking reliability and versatility in challenging terrains. 1. Superb holding power thanks to the exclusive Direct Loading system, enhancing safety and stability. 2. Narrow head width in smaller sizes allows for optimal placement in tight cracks and narrow spaces. 3. Designed to be loadable on just two lobes, maximizing efficiency and ease of use. 4. Strong springs and flexible design minimize walking, ensuring secure placements during climbs. 5. Smooth removal mechanism enhances usability, even in challenging conditions. 6. Easy handling with gloves, making it ideal for all climbers, regardless of skill level. 7. Good expansion range of 1.64:1, accommodating a variety of crack sizes for versatile applications. The Totem Cam is designed for rock climbing and mountaineering, making it ideal for both sport and traditional climbers. It performs best in rocky terrains and varied environments, from cragging to multi-pitch ascents. Targeted at climbers of all skill levels, this cam excels in scenarios requiring reliable protection in narrow cracks and challenging placements. Its lightweight construction makes it suitable for extended climbs, while its robust design ensures performance in all seasons.
Price: $116.95
John Willard's review
I got a single rack of the black totem to the green (.2-.75 for BD sizing) and I love these things. They are a staple in my collection of cams. I don't like the #1 or #2 as the stems are too flimsy for my liking.
Recommended by John Willard, Founder & Lead Guide @ Willard Mountain Guides
Frequently asked questions
What does John Willard say about the Totem Cam?
I got a single rack of the black totem to the green (.2-.75 for BD sizing) and I love these things. They are a staple in my collection of cams. I don't like the #1 or #2 as the stems are too flimsy for my liking.
Why does John Willard recommend Totem MT?
John Willard recommends the Totem MT Totem Cam for climbing protection. I got a single rack of the black totem to the green (.2-.75 for BD sizing) and I love these things. They are a staple in my collection of cams. I don't like the #1 or #2 as the stems are too flimsy for my liking.
Is the Totem Cam a good climbing protection?
Yes — John Willard recommends the Totem Cam by Totem MT as their climbing protection pick. I got a single rack of the black totem to the green (.2-.75 for BD sizing) and I love these things. They are a staple in my collection of cams. I don't like the #1 or #2 as the stems are too flimsy for my liking.
More from John Willard's Rock Climbing
View John Willard's expert gear recommendations on Rendezvu
What other hosts are saying
8 experts recommend the Totem MT Totem Cam.
Cora Hanson, AMGA Single Pitch Instructor
Totem cams always seem to fit exactly where you need them to! I carry one Black (#0.5) and one Blue (#0.65) to round out the smallest cams on my rack. For reference, the Black Totem is similar to a #0.2 in Black Diamond Z4s and the Blue Totem is similar to a #0.3, but they have a larger camming range which means they fit in more placements.
Recommended in Top Rope Anchors
Clara Maynard, AMGA Apprentice Rock/Alpine Guide & Wilderness Medicine Instructor
Black totem is best “0.2 size” cam out there. Totems are great in smaller sizes (up to purple)
Recommended in Mixed Climbing
Awesome cam, very highly recommended!
Recommended in Desert Rock
Owen Duda, Climber, Guide, Craftsman, Writer
Ahhh the Totems. They rock. Without getting too much into the specifications OR controversy surrounding them, they are awesome. Although I do not own many (nor do I plan to), the Black totem is the classic sought after piece and it is for good reason. The blue is sweet as well.
Recommended in Trad Climbing
Jay Black, AMGA SPI-Splitboarder
We call this “Gods Piece” two Black totems on your harness will give you more confidence placing tiny pro. Would whip.
Recommended in Climbing gear
Joe Kalis, Oncology Pharmacist / Aspiring Guide
For when the gear is small. Or small and tenuous. Or small, tenuous, and you appreciate the finest in engineering.
Recommended in Rock Climbing
These cams are simply amazing for fitting into tricky placements such as flared cracks and pin scars. Especially useful for aid climbing.
Recommended in Rock Climbing Mentorship Program