Brand: Edelrid
Category: Carabiners
Recommended by Cora Hanson, AMGA Single Pitch Instructor — St. Paul, MN
Highlights: durable, anchor building, locking, steel insert
The Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Screw Carabiner in Gray is a lightweight yet durable climbing accessory designed for top roping. Its innovative steel insert at the apex enhances longevity, making it an essential tool for climbers seeking reliability and performance. 1. Lightweight construction reduces overall gear weight without compromising strength. 2. Steel insert at the apex minimizes wear and tear, extending the carabiner's lifespan. 3. Screw-lock mechanism ensures secure closure, providing peace of mind during climbs. 4. Robust design accommodates various climbing styles, from sport to trad. 5. Ergonomic shape allows for easy handling, even with gloves on. 6. Versatile gray finish complements any climbing gear setup. 7. Tested to meet high safety standards, ensuring reliability in critical situations. The Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Screw Carabiner is ideal for climbers engaged in top roping and sport climbing, performing best in outdoor environments such as crags and climbing gyms. It caters to both novice and experienced climbers, providing a dependable option for securing ropes and gear. This carabiner excels in scenarios requiring frequent clipping and unclipping, making it a perfect choice for multi-pitch routes or extended climbing sessions.
Price: $34.95
- Who it's for
- Climbers who top-rope or sport crag frequently and want a masterpoint locker that won't wear out quickly. Hosts consistently recommend buying two for the anchor masterpoint.
- What people are saying
- Hosts uniformly praise the steel insert for protecting both the carabiner and the rope from aluminum oxide buildup, extending the life of both. The screw gate is noted as smooth, and the weight penalty versus a standard aluminum locker is described as minimal. No criticism appears across the notes.
- Worth noting
- The body is aluminum with a steel plate only in the basket/rope-bearing zone, so it's not a full steel carabiner. It costs more than a standard aluminum locker but hosts say the durability justifies it; one notes it will last many years before the insert wears down.
Cora Hanson's review
These locking carabiners have a steel insert where the rope runs, making them ideal for building top rope anchors. I use two of these for my master point, and though they're a bit more expensive than a normal aluminum locker, they'll last many years because the steel insert won't wear down quickly like aluminum and it will also prevent your ropes from turning black from aluminum oxide building up.
Recommended by Cora Hanson, AMGA Single Pitch Instructor
Frequently asked questions
Who is the Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Screw Carabiner for?
Climbers who top-rope or sport crag frequently and want a masterpoint locker that won't wear out quickly. Hosts consistently recommend buying two for the anchor masterpoint.
What do experts say about the Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Screw Carabiner?
Hosts uniformly praise the steel insert for protecting both the carabiner and the rope from aluminum oxide buildup, extending the life of both. The screw gate is noted as smooth, and the weight penalty versus a standard aluminum locker is described as minimal. No criticism appears across the notes.
What should you know before buying the Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Screw Carabiner?
The body is aluminum with a steel plate only in the basket/rope-bearing zone, so it's not a full steel carabiner. It costs more than a standard aluminum locker but hosts say the durability justifies it; one notes it will last many years before the insert wears down.
What does Cora Hanson say about the Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Screw Carabiner?
These locking carabiners have a steel insert where the rope runs, making them ideal for building top rope anchors. I use two of these for my master point, and though they're a bit more expensive than a normal aluminum locker, they'll last many years because the steel insert won't wear down quickly like aluminum and it will also prevent your ropes from turning black from aluminum oxide building up.
Why does Cora Hanson recommend Edelrid?
Cora Hanson recommends the Edelrid Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Screw Carabiner for carabiners. These locking carabiners have a steel insert where the rope runs, making them ideal for building top rope anchors. I use two of these for my master point, and though they're a bit more expensive than a normal aluminum locker, they'll last many years because the steel insert won't wear down quickly like aluminum and it will also prevent your ropes from turning black from aluminum oxide building up.
Is the Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Screw Carabiner a good carabiner?
Yes — Cora Hanson recommends the Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Screw Carabiner by Edelrid as their carabiners pick. These locking carabiners have a steel insert where the rope runs, making them ideal for building top rope anchors. I use two of these for my master point, and though they're a bit more expensive than a normal aluminum locker, they'll last many years because the steel insert won't wear down quickly like aluminum and it will also prevent your ropes from turning black from aluminum oxide building up.
More from Cora Hanson's Top Rope Anchors
View Cora Hanson's expert gear recommendations on Rendezvu
What other hosts are saying
6 experts recommend the Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Screw Carabiner.
Teddy Dondanville, AMGA Assistant Rock Guide & Certified Single Pitch Instructor
The Edelrid HMS Bulletproof carabiner is perfect for top rope masterpoints. The body of the carabiner is aluminum, but it has a steel plate in the carabiner’s basket, so it’s much less susceptible to wear and tear from the rope.
Recommended in Multi Pitch Kit
Henry Ko, AMGA Certified Single Pitch Instructor
(x2) - great dedicated carabiner for top-rope setups
Recommended in AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Gear
Chris Johnson, Apprentice Climbing Guide, Professional Ski Patroller
I pair this with my Mammut Nordwand Alpine Belay device for hard-wearing steel on rope surfaces. It's great for belaying one or two people from above, and is a rockstar on rappel. A buttery smooth screw gate with a red warning to remind you to lock your carabiner make this a great choice.
Recommended in Trad Climbing Gear
Joe Kalis, Oncology Pharmacist / Aspiring Guide
The best belay carabiner out there. Screwgate, steel insert to keep your rope clean and increase longevity, minimal weight penalty!
Recommended in My First List
Brent Smith, AMGA Rock Guide and Apprentice Alpine Guide
Best for Masterpoint locking carabiners while toproping. The steel inset saves your rope from absorbing aluminum to help it last longer!
Recommended in Single Pitch Sport Climbing
